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Thread: Cut&Buff:???
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    first of all , is this a fresh paint job or one thats been cut and buffed before ?
    If its and older paint job and been cut and buffed , I would just polish it out with some 3M swirl remover , then hand polish with some mist and shine .
    You may not have enough clear to cut and buff , and burning through will end up in a repaint or spot job .

    If its a new paint job and has not been sanded and buffed already , look at the finish , is it pealy , or is it fairly slick ?
    If its pealy cut it with 1200 -1500 wet or use a DA with 1500 dry .
    then you can go over it with 3000 on a DA wet , then it should polish fast with a bit of compound . ( depending on the clear & catalyst , the slower the catalyst used , the tighter the cross link ( dry time ) and makes for a harder time buffing .

    If its fairly slick you can use the same technique as above but you wont have to sand so much with 1200-1500 paper and go to the 3000 faster to compound/polish.

    Use a variable speed BUFFER ( start out with 1400 RPM or slower ) not a grinder , go slow and only buff in a 1' X 1" area and watch it buff up , I use wool & foam pads ( depends on how fast I need to get the job out ) , it is easier to burn the paint with a foam as it heats up faster . Stop every so often and touch the area with your hand if its hot stop and let it cool , then continue when cooled down .
    Just dont get in a hurry
    Happy Buffing !

  2. #2
    27tee's Avatar
    27tee is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 27 ford t 454 ;69 C10 396; Jeep cj7 454
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    Quote Originally Posted by SprayTech
    first of all , is this a fresh paint job or one thats been cut and buffed before ?
    If its and older paint job and been cut and buffed , I would just polish it out with some 3M swirl remover , then hand polish with some mist and shine .
    You may not have enough clear to cut and buff , and burning through will end up in a repaint or spot job .

    If its a new paint job and has not been sanded and buffed already , look at the finish , is it pealy , or is it fairly slick ?
    If its pealy cut it with 1200 -1500 wet or use a DA with 1500 dry .
    then you can go over it with 3000 on a DA wet , then it should polish fast with a bit of compound . ( depending on the clear & catalyst , the slower the catalyst used , the tighter the cross link ( dry time ) and makes for a harder time buffing .

    If its fairly slick you can use the same technique as above but you wont have to sand so much with 1200-1500 paper and go to the 3000 faster to compound/polish.

    Use a variable speed BUFFER ( start out with 1400 RPM or slower ) not a grinder , go slow and only buff in a 1' X 1" area and watch it buff up , I use wool & foam pads ( depends on how fast I need to get the job out ) , it is easier to burn the paint with a foam as it heats up faster . Stop every so often and touch the area with your hand if its hot stop and let it cool , then continue when cooled down .
    Just dont get in a hurry
    Happy Buffing !


    Fresh paint, sides came out flat but alot of orange peal on the top.
    What kind of compound do you like for black ?

    Thanks

  3. #3
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    I like 3m's Products and wizards Products too .

    http://www.innate.com/Supplies/Wizards/Wizards.htm

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