What about a Sata. I I have a a 2000 for a number of years now. To me, It's an awsome gun..............
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What about a Sata. I I have a a 2000 for a number of years now. To me, It's an awsome gun..............
I hate to say it but I have tried every model of SATA's and hated them , big & bulky and never gave me a finish I was satisfied with .
an over rated & over priced gun , But that is my opinion on 30 years of spraying color .
Some guys swear by them , but not me .
I'm no professional painter, but my dad and I painted my car with a DeVilbiss. We bought a three gun kit out of Eastwood that has a gun for primer, topcoat, and tuch-up work or something. I don't recall the name or model number but i thought it performed well and i'm happy with the results. I don't know if our paintguns are made for professionals but it worked for what little we had and what little we will have. I'm sure paint guns are just like everthing else, you get what you pay for.
use a cheap gun and you will learn all things great and small about solvent pop and the damage it can do. if an extra 100 bucks or so is that big of a burden your in the wrong hobby. there is a car here that was shot with the hf pos. after a ton of work it looked good. less than a year later the solvent pop is back and down to first clear. there is no fixing it. imho devilbiss has not made a quality gun since the jga502 . nor has binks. they just went cheap and depend on name to sell.
how true shine ,
when the HVLP was first introduced I was trying every new HVLP gun that came out on the market , Mattson was the one I used for years , still have mine but its wore out .
Devilbiss & Binks stayed behind the old Technology to long and fell way behind & they are suffering because of it . That plastic HVLP POS devilbiss made was the biggest pile I have ever tried to used .
The JGV was my last Devilbiss .
Hey Spray, I'm thinking about getting a gun for JUST spraying clear.... Wondered what you might reccomend??? Or actually, which Iwata setup....:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by SprayTech
I use the LPH 400 LV for all my clearing Dave , has a nice wide pattern & the atomization is excellent at 20 psi with trigger fullly pulled .
Some like the Conventional W400lv with the Tulip spray pattern , I have one and the pattern is smaller and its a tad slower for clearing bigger jobs ( I will use it for solid color base coats though). But with that gun you can buy a nozzle, needle and air cap , and tun it into an LPH 400 , which I am going to do .
i have a lph400 with 1.3-1.4 and all three caps, i have a lph100 with the sidewinder cup. i use both guns in a paint job. load both and do all the tuff spots with the 100 then grab the 400. i'm just one of those painters that wants the best tool i can get . i hate cheap junk.
For sure the Iwata LPH-400-144V. The 1.4 cap works nice for BC as well as CC tho I would like to try the 1.3 cap for thin BC. They run at 16psig inlet pressure and I have run mine down as low as 10psig for real small touch up spots. The aluminum cup is my preference - either the 700 or 1000ml(which I have)
I forgot to mention my Iwata LPH 400's are all in 1.4 needles .
I have not tried the new LVX orange air cap yet , as the purple LVB works for every base I shoot .
Thanks! Looks like I better save up my pennies again and get one...Spending way to much time wet-sanding the clear..... Sure do appreciate itQuote:
Originally Posted by SprayTech
I'm not getting into this one. But, I guess for many it comes down to $$$ and how much use you going to get out of the gun. A $375++ gun would be a great buy, unless it gets used once and then stored. If you are planning on painting more then one car, go for it. If not, I guess you could always recoupe some of your money on EBay.:LOL: :LOL:
I'm not endorsing a cheap gun (Shine can tell you about his purple gun:LOL: ) but there may be a happy price point for someone who wil be a one time user other than $375.
Not trying to turn this into an argument .
It comes down to " You get what you pay for " .
If its a money issue buy a cheap gun to apply all the primer & prep it to applying the color , but find a qualified painter to spray the color for you . With the expense of materials today it would be worth it IMO .
Heck thats pretty cheap insurance if you dont have to re-do the paint job again. ;) :)
Or, to save a lot of expense, and risking a total disaster, just do all the bodywork, blocking, priming, and get it done to your satisfaction, then take it to Maaco and let them shoot it.... The guys that shoot paint there have a lot of experience with a gun, and use decent materials... If you can do above average bodywork, the paint job will look great!~!!!!!
That was what I tried to do - to have a pro paint. The least expensive price was $6000 and then it went up from there. These were custom painters, not a local body shop. I was to supply all of the paints,including BC/CC/activators/hardeners/reducers etc. I would present the car in pieces, ready to paint - they were to spray, cut and buff. I have to assume that when the price was given to me that a 'fudge factor' was added for any of my prep mistakes. And the car - the avatar '31 Ford roadster. That Iwata got real cheap,real fast when I added in 1.5 gallons of DuPont Chromabase BC @$650/gallon, $200/quart and 1.5 gallons of clear at $150/gallon, $50 qt. Is my paint job pro quality? Probably not, but there are no runs, after cut and buff, it shines nicely and my satisfaction level is at ~90%. Did it take me a long time - sure did, but that was my gaining experience and the fact that the last full sized car I painted was in 1989 and with DuPont Centari and with a siphon gun (I did my fenderless T-bucket in 1992 with RM BC/CC but that body was so small that it hardly counts)Quote:
Originally Posted by SprayTech