Thread: What would you guys do in this situation? Bare metal

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Dang , now something else,lol No really I will paint it by noon tomorrow and it will sit over night. Do you really think I should etch it again?
How can I spray a thick coat of the epoxy? I tried it today at 35 psi, about 70 degrees outside ,and a 2 to 1 mix.

Rule of thumb that I have gone by is that you have to spray two coats of any catalyzed paint, for the hardener to work right. The cans or tech sheet should tell you how long to wait between coats.

Man, that was a CHORE! Next time I need a smaller spray gun I could not move this big one around. So there is a couple runs but its primer. I just hate all that rust,any rust. Now on to the next step. I am going to get new ball joints ,tie rods ,all front suspension. I am also going to do some 2" lowered s-10 spindles and brakes including master cylinder. In between all that I will fit the sbc and the hooker super comp headers. Then on to the cage and rear suspension. Dont know how I am going to hide all that from my wife,lol.

if you're using the metal prep system, you cant use epoxy over it without sanding or using a D/A. metal prep is an acid obviously, and epoxy is not. the metal prep will eventually lift the paint if the right system isnt used. usually what i do is use just the first step of the metal prep with a scotch bright really good, then wipe it down with lacquer, then use 150 grit on a DA really good until the metal looks absolutely perfect, then 80 grit on a Da really good, then clean it a couple more times, then epoxy. as long as you sand the metal reallllly good, you can use epoxy. it would work right over the top of the metal prep.