Thread: What would you guys do in this situation? Bare metal

Tweet

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

I have had metal preps leave a "bronzey" color behind, before.

I've never seen any data on it, but my guess is it has to do with the metallurgy (alloy content) of the part. Here are some splash shields from a '65 Dodge that I did after bead blasting. The two from under the fender did the "bronze" like color, the one from under the rad did more of the "blue-green" thing.

hmm.... that looks a little more like what i am seeing.

I took some photos to the paint shop and they said it was fine and that what its supposed to look like. Well , the car sat outside and theres cloud cover but no rain until tomorrow. To be on the safe side I bought another set of the chemicals to treat again.

Ok heres what I got.

Started with this.

There's a tiny little run on the lower edge of the firewall on the passenger side. I'd do it all over . . .

Kidding. It looks very good. It's amazing what a little paint will do for a project, isn't it?

Big improvement!

Man, that was a CHORE! Next time I need a smaller spray gun I could not move this big one around. So there is a couple runs but its primer. I just hate all that rust,any rust. Now on to the next step. I am going to get new ball joints ,tie rods ,all front suspension. I am also going to do some 2" lowered s-10 spindles and brakes including master cylinder. In between all that I will fit the sbc and the hooker super comp headers. Then on to the cage and rear suspension. Dont know how I am going to hide all that from my wife,lol.

if you're using the metal prep system, you cant use epoxy over it without sanding or using a D/A. metal prep is an acid obviously, and epoxy is not. the metal prep will eventually lift the paint if the right system isnt used. usually what i do is use just the first step of the metal prep with a scotch bright really good, then wipe it down with lacquer, then use 150 grit on a DA really good until the metal looks absolutely perfect, then 80 grit on a Da really good, then clean it a couple more times, then epoxy. as long as you sand the metal reallllly good, you can use epoxy. it would work right over the top of the metal prep.