Thread: Painting without a spray gun
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09-19-2007 11:07 AM #1
Originally Posted by mopar34
This is what's in the normal Home Despot stuff:
Chemical Name CAS Number Weight % Less ThanACGIH TLV-TWA ACGIH TLV-STEL OSHA PEL-TWA OSHA PEL-CEILING
Stoddard Solvents 8052 -41-3 55.0 100 PPM N.E. 500 PPM N.E.
Magnesium Silicate 14807-96-6 25.0 10 mg/m3 N.E. 15 mg/m3 N.E.
Titanium Dioxide 13463-67-7 20.0 10 mg/m3 N.E. 10 mg/m3 N.E.
Calcined Aluminum Silicate 1332 -58-7 20.0 2 mg/m3 N.E. 5 mg/m3 N.E.
Pigment Yellow 74 6358 -31-2 5.0 N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E.
Pigment Violet 32 12225-08-0 5.0 N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E.
Pigment Black 7 1333 -86-4 5.0 3.5 mg/m3 N.E. 3.5 mg/m3 N.E.
I just wanted to be sure I hadn't stuck my foot somewhere wher it shouldn't be - againDave
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09-19-2007 11:58 AM #2
Roller painting
I've painted two boats (34' & 21'), a couple of Waverunners, and a pickup with a roller/brush combo. All turned out flawless with no wetsanding or polishing required. It just take time (lots), technique, and a good quality paint system designed for this type of application. I used US Paints Awl Grip which is similar to Imron, just a newer formula (and different manufacturer).
The Awl Grip paint requires 4 parts be mixed whether rolled or sprayed. A color base, the clear catalyst, a reducer, and an accelerator. The catalyst and reducer are specific to spraying or brushing.
There are several advantages to rolling. It's cheap (disregarding your time), 1-2 quarts is enough for a typical car. I used less than 1 quart for a 21' boat. Cost was around $100 for all materials involved. No clean-up afterwards aside from throwing the roller sleeves and brushes into the trash can.
You must paint in the shade. If not the paint will not have time to lay out before it dries and cures. You MUST do this with plenty of ventillation, again under a canvas in your driveway works well. LP paints contain nasties which can hurt you if inhaled.
You must thin it properly and adjust the reducer as you are painting. The reducer is evaporating as you paint, don't mix at the start and assume it will be constant during the process. Roll a small area at a time, maybe 3' x 3', then follow it up with a brush. Vertical brushstrokes on vertical surfaces. Horizontal brushstrokes cause runs. Use light brushstrokes, all you're trying to do is remove the small bubbles that are formed by the cut open cells of the roller sleeve. Use a foam roller sleeve with no more than 1/8th thick foam. Any thicker and you'll load up too much paint. When you've applied a coat, LEAVE IT ALONE! Don't sit there playing with it. The paint will level itself and pull the surface taute as it dries.
Cheers, Mark
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09-19-2007 01:14 PM #3
The rust ol eum has a dry time of about 30 days un thinned
I sprayed it on and it took atleast a month before I could sand.....
The thinning takes that to about 48 hrs dry time.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
I saw last night on fb about John. The world sure lost a great one. I'm going to miss his humor, advice, and perspective from another portion of the world. Rest in Peace Johnboy.
John Norton aka johnboy