Thread: Painting without a spray gun

Tweet

From what I've heard of Rust-O-Leum it might be a good cheap paint job now but if they decide to use good paint in the future, the whole car may need to be taken down to the metal. Rust-O-Leum has fish oil in it and fish oil bleeds thru other paints and products. So it has to be completely removed prior to repainting with any thing other then more Rust-O-Leum or similar paint.

I guess I could have been told wrong, so I will refer this issue to the skilled painters.

Originally Posted by mopar34

From what I've heard of Rust-O-Leum it might be a good cheap paint job now but if they decide to use good paint in the future, the whole car may need to be taken down to the metal. Rust-O-Leum has fish oil in it and fish oil bleeds thru other paints and products. So it has to be completely removed prior to repainting with any thing other then more Rust-O-Leum or similar paint.

I guess I could have been told wrong, so I will refer this issue to the skilled painters.

Bob,
I think they did away with the fish oil additive and are just using standard solvents now.

Dave - That's good to know. At least for when I re-paint my lawn furniture. Still wouldn't use it for anything I would would want to be seen in or on in public.

Thanks

I was pretty fascinated by that story when I first saw it on the net a year or two back. From the pictures of the Charger it doesn't look too bad at all (gloss might be down a bit), but I'd like to see it in person. Bottom line though, the worst part of painting (IMO) is the bodywork. Once that gets done correctly it seems like using a gun would be a lot faster.

Just a note about Model T colors, see the link
http://www.modelt.org/rpaint.html
The original Model T colors were not black on the body,
the colors changed from year to year. In 1915, they went
to black to keep the cost down (black was the cheapest). Note that a lot of the early colors were very dark and looked almost black. After 1925, Henry had to catch up with the competition and introduced colors again. Model A Fords were not availaible in Black in 28/29, see this link:
http://www.ahooga.com/info/black.shtml

Note that the fender color was usually black, regardless of the body color....

Originally Posted by mopar34

Dave - That's good to know. At least for when I re-paint my lawn furniture. Still wouldn't use it for anything I would would want to be seen in or on in public.

Thanks

Bob,
This is what's in the normal Home Despot stuff:

Chemical Name CAS Number Weight % Less ThanACGIH TLV-TWA ACGIH TLV-STEL OSHA PEL-TWA OSHA PEL-CEILING
Stoddard Solvents 8052 -41-3 55.0 100 PPM N.E. 500 PPM N.E.
Magnesium Silicate 14807-96-6 25.0 10 mg/m3 N.E. 15 mg/m3 N.E.
Titanium Dioxide 13463-67-7 20.0 10 mg/m3 N.E. 10 mg/m3 N.E.
Calcined Aluminum Silicate 1332 -58-7 20.0 2 mg/m3 N.E. 5 mg/m3 N.E.
Pigment Yellow 74 6358 -31-2 5.0 N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E.
Pigment Violet 32 12225-08-0 5.0 N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E.
Pigment Black 7 1333 -86-4 5.0 3.5 mg/m3 N.E. 3.5 mg/m3 N.E.

I just wanted to be sure I hadn't stuck my foot somewhere wher it shouldn't be - again

I've painted two boats (34' & 21'), a couple of Waverunners, and a pickup with a roller/brush combo. All turned out flawless with no wetsanding or polishing required. It just take time (lots), technique, and a good quality paint system designed for this type of application. I used US Paints Awl Grip which is similar to Imron, just a newer formula (and different manufacturer).

The Awl Grip paint requires 4 parts be mixed whether rolled or sprayed. A color base, the clear catalyst, a reducer, and an accelerator. The catalyst and reducer are specific to spraying or brushing.

There are several advantages to rolling. It's cheap (disregarding your time), 1-2 quarts is enough for a typical car. I used less than 1 quart for a 21' boat. Cost was around $100 for all materials involved. No clean-up afterwards aside from throwing the roller sleeves and brushes into the trash can.

You must paint in the shade. If not the paint will not have time to lay out before it dries and cures. You MUST do this with plenty of ventillation, again under a canvas in your driveway works well. LP paints contain nasties which can hurt you if inhaled.

You must thin it properly and adjust the reducer as you are painting. The reducer is evaporating as you paint, don't mix at the start and assume it will be constant during the process. Roll a small area at a time, maybe 3' x 3', then follow it up with a brush. Vertical brushstrokes on vertical surfaces. Horizontal brushstrokes cause runs. Use light brushstrokes, all you're trying to do is remove the small bubbles that are formed by the cut open cells of the roller sleeve. Use a foam roller sleeve with no more than 1/8th thick foam. Any thicker and you'll load up too much paint. When you've applied a coat, LEAVE IT ALONE! Don't sit there playing with it. The paint will level itself and pull the surface taute as it dries.

Cheers, Mark

The rust ol eum has a dry time of about 30 days un thinned
I sprayed it on and it took atleast a month before I could sand.....
The thinning takes that to about 48 hrs dry time.