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Thread: Is waxing the clearcoat necessary??
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Alyn is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Is waxing the clearcoat necessary??

     



    Hi, I'm a new guy to this board and been checking in periodically for info regarding the repainting of my XJ6 Jag. Got a dopey question...If the clear coat has been color sanded with 2000 and the buffed with polishing compound to a high gloss, is it necessary to then wax with a carnauba wax??

  2. #2
    mrmustang's Avatar
    mrmustang is offline Global Moderator Lifetime Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    No, in fact I always suggest that a freshly painted and rubbed out car not have any wax on it for at least the first 3 months to allow the solvents to cure. Longer depending on the color the car is painted or just how many coats of paint were applied and which paints/solvents were used at that time.
    Instead of being part of the problem, be part of a successful solution.

  3. #3
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    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I agree, It's not necessary, like it was with the old paints.

    Urethanes will even resist really harsh chemicals like gasoline and nitro, where the old lacquers could even be stained by bird droppings.

    Many people still wax, but it just helps improve the appearance. Glaze is a temporary way to improve appearance, and may are now using detailer sprays, instead of wax.

  4. #4
    kenseth17 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I agree, urethane needs very little maintenence, but should allow time for tail solvents to escape before sealing with a wax. If you take good care and wax periodicly it won't hurt. Not all clearcoats are created equal though and last as many years as the better ones, and have the same uv inhibiting qualitys to protect the color. All automotive urethane and polyurethanes should have at least one type of uv inhibitor in them. If some lower line of clear is used, keeping it waxed and garaging could extend its life. Still most paint today you should probably be able to get 5 years or more out of, and the better lines many more with little upkeep (certified shops often offer a lifetime warrenty against peeling, fading, and a few other types of paint failure). Where as the old single stage enamels, it wouldn't be out of the question for reds to start fading in matter of months.
    Last edited by kenseth17; 04-10-2007 at 07:33 PM.

  5. #5
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Most manufacturers or acrylic urethane or cross-link urethane paints suggest they not be waxed because the wax finish is less durable than the actual paint finish. The wax will dull and turn yellow over time, the paint will not.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
    Most manufacturers or acrylic urethane or cross-link urethane paints suggest they not be waxed because the wax finish is less durable than the actual paint finish. The wax will dull and turn yellow over time, the paint will not.
    I have never seen a quality wax turn yellow. Wax will not last on your surface long enough. Todays synthetic waxes will not turn.
    I am a firm believer that wax will give you UV protection and all paints should be cared for. New paints I agree you should wait until all the slovents have had time to cure before waxing.
    But waxing will give you UV protection and also give you the deep gloss you are looking for. Between waxes I would suggest using a detail spray.

  7. #7
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    Besides what Jim says, a good wax covers all those little scratches and swirls that show up through normal wear and tear and washing. It also makes it easier to remove dirt and other detrius such as bird droppings and oil/tar. A good carnuba wax or synthetic will make your car a lot shinier than plain, untreated clearcoat. I find that waxing is a lot easier than using a detail spray every time I wash the car.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

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