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Thread: best primer
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    muteboy49's Avatar
    muteboy49 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    best primer

     



    ok i plan on leaving my truck in primer for awhile. (i always seem to change my mind on something and why waste money on paint?)
    what do you guys recommend for sealer?
    i need something thats gonna last awhile and be able to take any kind of weather
    Never Criticise A Man Until You've Walked A Mile In His Shoes. That Way When You Criticise Him You'll Be A Mile Away And You'll Have His Shoes

  2. #2
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Pettit Rustlock, unusally high solids for a primer.

  3. #3
    muteboy49's Avatar
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    thanks man!
    Never Criticise A Man Until You've Walked A Mile In His Shoes. That Way When You Criticise Him You'll Be A Mile Away And You'll Have His Shoes

  4. #4
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    I don't know a thing about the primer that 76GMC1500 suggested - it may be great. Acrylic primer by itself will not protect steel. It is porous and the substrate(steel) WILL rust. If you plan on leaving your vehicle in primer for a while, like thru the winter, a properly prepared surface and epoxy are the only material that will do it. There are many brands of epoxy primers though the most economical that I have found are Nason (a DuPont sub-brand) and Southern Polyurethanes in Georgia. If you call these people, you will talk to the owner, Barry K and he will go thru the process and answer questions you didn't know you had http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

    When you finally decide to paint the vehicle, scuff the epoxy with 180, hit with another coat of epoxy and start your process for paint.
    Dave

  5. #5
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    ppg dp40 gray green or 90 black or 60 red they make more but the 90 maybe what you want this will do a good job of sealing and when ready to paint wet sand out with 3m gray back 320 paper with ppg 330 wax and grease remover this keeps the paper from plugging up.put the 330 in a spray bottle this works good .you can use a red 3m scrub pad i do both and then reseal or prime up

  6. #6
    shevy not heme's Avatar
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    I would agree with the epoxy. I never use less than 3 medium coats and apply it right after sanding/cleaning. Are the $300 epoxy systems better than the $70 epoxys??? Takes more experience than I have to really answer that but I have found that some of the lower priced epoxies are tough as nails but can sometimes be a bear to feather if needed. Sand the metal with 180 grit DA and clean good. Preparation is as important as the paint used.
    Hey has that thing gotta Heme in it? No, it's a shevy not heme!

  7. #7
    muteboy49's Avatar
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    ok thanks guys
    right now im still blocking it with 320 grit
    Never Criticise A Man Until You've Walked A Mile In His Shoes. That Way When You Criticise Him You'll Be A Mile Away And You'll Have His Shoes

  8. #8
    LFRENCH is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i second that suggestion by pat

    i have used PPG's DP40 greenstuff, its held up well for the wear and tare and also the moisture.

    I'm not sure bout PPG's DP40-1 or whatever it is, as I only shoot the one with that contains lead. Just becareful with the stuff! as i have named it "The Toxic Pear" for its color and odor

  9. #9
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    K36 from PPG is some pretty strong stuff... Or find some kind of bridge primer, that stuff is STRONG!
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

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