Thread: Brookville primers

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Originally Posted by Irelands child

C9 - I responded to your post yesterday - and it didn't show up - then it appeared - sorry

Not a problem.

I cut out a 1 1/2" filler piece for the lower belt line at the extreme bottom of the body at the rear.
It was cut out for a parachute mount - the car was originally slated to be a dry lakes runner, but it's turning out so nice that I'm putting it on the street.

Anyway, I had some 100 grit wet/dry in my little Makita finish sander.
Took the primer - which was thin - right down to bare steel with no problem.

There are some areas that will need to be washed out with lacquer thinner, but sanding the open areas looks to be reasonably easy.

Areas that will require lacquer thinner are at the bottom of the trunk sill where it joins the belt line at the extreme bottom.
That and a clean brass brush ought to do it.

A tip for those who use lacquer. It is not like enamel. It depends on solvent penetration for adhesion. Always make sure it is sprayed "wet". If you shoot it dry, or over a surface that it has trouble penetrating, Like a well cured high gloss, it won't stick. I'm sure that is the problem on your body.

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

A tip for those who use lacquer. It is not like enamel. It depends on solvent penetration for adhesion. Always make sure it is sprayed "wet". If you shoot it dry, or over a surface that it has trouble penetrating, Like a well cured high gloss, it won't stick. I'm sure that is the problem on your body.

Hotrodpaint - if you read the first post you will see Brookville's response to me - they put primer on draw quality cold roll steel - just as it came from their presses - and oily in places. That plus the fact that the primer they use mediocre cheap crap and is totally being removed w/80 to 100 grit paper. There is no problem with the body except is is eating my retirement up many extra hour after hour. With that said, Brookville bodies are fine STEEL repro bodies, and take extensive time to repair their screw ups plus make necessary mods so an owner can run modern equipment - i.e. V8 motors with auto trans, etc, etc, etc.
Some day I will post my essay on this body - when I finish painting it.
Caveat emptor !!

Irelands child, like you I am currently building a 30 Brookville roadster coated with their crappy primer. Most likely I will check into having everything removed via media blasting. I have not checked to see if there are local blasters here in Albany, OR but that has to be much faster than what you are doing. My only concern is will I run into issues with some of that media blasting material getting into places hard to get out and then appear when my paint job is being done? So I do not know if faster easier media blasting is the ticket or removing the primer the hard way? Thanks,

Originally Posted by stylingZ

My only concern is will I run into issues with some of that media blasting material getting into places hard to get out and then appear when my paint job is being done?

Yes!! Not discounting the process as an option, but you can vacuum, air blow, vacuum, air blow, etc. etc. and may not get it all. Also, not all media (meaning plastic, soda or nut shells.................as opposed to sand) blasters are equal. I tried a new guy once on high recommendation and he ruined every flat panel (had a ton o' body work to do). Also, plastic media won't remove surface rust.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Yes!! Not discounting the process as an option, but you can vacuum, air blow, vacuum, air blow, etc. etc. and may not get it all. recommendation and he ruined every flat panel (had a ton o' body work to do). Also, plastic media won't remove surface rust.

[QUOTE=Irelands child, So I do not know if faster easier media blasting is the ticket or removing the primer the hard way? Thanks[QUOTE=]

Guys,
The closest responsible guy that I could find was about 150 miles one way and at that the info was only from a friend of a friend. There are a couple of local guys that will fire up their motorized blaster and hit it with Black Beauty (coal slag). One of them blasted my '57 Ford 9" in about 3 minutes - rough stuff. This is the reason that I chose to do it the hard way with a bale of 80 grit paper, a stack of DA discs and a box of Rolocs - both sandpaper and bristle plus my rotary wire brush to dig the crap out of the corners of the raised details. I bought a $15 Harbor Freight sand blaster and used it ONLY to clean the area between the firewall and the cowl side. I then sold the blaster at a swap meet last Saturday !!

This primer is so thick and very soft that it clogs the paper almost instantly though the long board 80 seemed to cut through it fairly well. The best paper that I found was Norton 3X. Any of the 3M stuff wasn't worth the premium price. As you can see, I am almost finished - one rear wheel well left after about 3 weeks of fairly steady work. I was uncomfortable using a grinder and with the potential for digging gouges in the very soft draw quality body steel.This would have caused even more work. I was also uncomfortable with using liquid paint stripper overall. Leave some in a body joint, goodby paint in that area. Lacquer thinner was suggested - I tried a small spot on the cowl in the weather stripping groove. What a mess!! Possibly a full dipped professional body strip would work, but again, none anywhere around here - the NY Capital District area

As far as sand and media drizzling out - a Bob says, dusting, vacuuming and air blasting will remove most of the material. A good overall complete epoxy primer should encapsulate almost everthing left.

Bob, I would hope that stylingZ's Brookville doesn't have any rust - there is just too much primer for anything to get through.

And yes media blasting, it can make a mess of panels - a friend had a Jag XK120 with the 50's slab sides that cost him a bundle to have fixed by a second body man.

Babbled enough - time to get sanding. It is amazing how much poor Brookville quality makes its' appearance when their primer is removed.

Finally - everything is primered with Southern Polyurethane's epoxy except the tops of the 'glass fenders - they wont rust !!! That is real nice stuff and "only" $50/quart - I've used 2 qts so far and will use probably one more. Mix ratio is 1:1 epoxy to activator so I have used a gallon of mix so far

The low spots are now much easier to see and, unfortunately, so are the high spots. Since I can't get behind a single one of these to dolly back, the highs will just become more lows and be mudded in with Evercoat Rage starting tomorrow.