Thread: body filler

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OK, so if paint is porous, and primer is certainly porous, and body filler is porous...

Wouldn't sanding to the metal before applying filler create a direct path for moisture to rust the underlying metal????

That's why it's important to use a sealer too. It's the difference between a quality job and a quicky or hack job.

Paint isnt porus, its why we use paint, to seal off the primer sealer, so moisture doesnt penetrate to the metal.

You dont have to put bodo directly to sanded bare steel, PPG recomends to put down their DP epoxy sealer down first ( over bare metal) before you apply your body filler.( Trust me I've been to enough of their schools to know ).

I see you live in FLA. where Humidity is high, I wouldnt leave my bare steel open for very long as it will start surface rusting pretty quick.


Spray

Hey Spray, maybe he's thinking about our old friend Mr. Lacquer.

Thats usually what 22 coats of hand rubbed lacquer looks like INDEED............LOL

What most people never figured out with lacquer was , the LEAST amont of material was alot better!!

I havent used lacquers since PPG developed the Deltron line back in 1981.

Spray

Those 2 part epoxy primers seal nicely. I took my truck to bare metal and was priming and doing body work, but I ran out of money. The epoxy is holding up very well to moisture. The places I used etching primer to cover bondo when I'm not done filling, but need to drive rusts through in about a week or two and a have to sand it all off. Only prob with the epoxy is it loads up your paper if you try to sand it, unlike the etcher.