Thread: Spray can paint..

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Originally Posted by isaacm66

has anybody tried one of these. I was thinking of purchasing one to paint my car. Could this work?????
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Sta...spagenameZWDVW
and i was going to spray:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOT-R...QQcmdZViewItem

Has anyone tried any of these two products. both items together end up costing less then $500

Wow, if I had 500 bucks to spend, I would just head off to Earl Schieb for a paint job I hate being broke. Damn companies sent all of my jobs overseas!

Everything I have bought at Harbour freight has broke,quickly,,,except a saw-zall they had on sale and I just figure it to be a 'freak' that even the mfr.would be pissed that it has lasted. Get you a HVLP gun with a lower SCFM than the gun you have,their out there.Buy you some e-bay or Kirker(good urethane primer) and your compressor will be fine.Just don't try to paint an entire car at one time.Their are guns now that work just fine with small compressors due to (supply/demand) I suppose.Since you have the compressor,use it.I take it that your gun isn't HVLP and that is part of the reason with the expense.As someone already said,a gallon of paint for the gun is cheaper/better than spray cans.And look,,,even if you put $300 a gal.paint on an old vehicle/metal,it will need more in about 3-5 years anyway! You would have to go with new panels,best of primers/paint in correct stages/preparation,oven baked,etc.,etc.,to get a 'lasting' job.With that compressor and a decent(-$100) gun you can get a nice finish for less than $100 that will last 5 yr.if you keep it out of all-day direct sunlight.But learn to cut-n-buff to get a nice 'finish'.Just my 2cts.worth.And no,a quart won't do unless it is a compact and you put 1 coat on.

go for it man, buy the paint and use your spray gun. you will never be prouder of your car than the day you can say "i painted it myself" if you mess up show it off, and learn from your mistakes and do better the next time you paint it. thats what i did on my first one, and have been painting ever since!

Well maybe I will give it a hot myself if I can scrounge up enough cash. That spray gun mentioned aboe is on sale right now at Harbor Frieght for only $15.99, and on top of that I have a 15% coupon.

I guess I will start saving my nickels and dimes and buy some paint from Ebay.
I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTO-...mZ230004027905

shrug,I am a very poor(money wise) person.When I discovered that I could save a few months and buy a gallon of paint,and the look,the sandable quality/featheredgeing,was so much better than cans,,,I have never looked back.And as,Hotrodpaint,I think,said,it is better.Then with every gun use you are gaining valuable experience and getting better! Acrylic enamel is good paint,and you can get the entire system for under $100 from many suppliers.Spray can can't compare to the ease of use and lasting quality.Also,it is at least twice easier to use than cans.

OK, I am going to go buy this gun tomorrow: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91011

I am going to try to sell a few things on Ebay to get this paint:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

After I spray, then do I have to do some kind of color sanding? Or is that for a different kind of paint? Do I just go right to wax?

If color sanding is next, what is the next step after that?

I am getting really excited to try this myself. I am going to tape up a bunch of plastic drop cloths in my garage to make it in to a temp spray booth (would a fan blowing from the inside out help?) make sure everything is clean, and probably paint in the next few weeks.

I wish I could see a video online of proper spray procedure. I think I have it from the books I read at the library, but actually seeing it would help.

Anyway, you guys have been great with all your help and you will be the first to see the photos right after paint.

Any additional tips you may have would be awesome.

shrug,if your public library has a video section check there.As far as the paint,follow the mfr's.instructions as far as mixing,pressure,and length of time before buffing as they do differ.USE A GOOD MASK TO PAINT,should actually be a fresh-air system.And if you have neighbors close,,,???
The cutting/buffing varies with mfr.also,basically you are deglossing the paint with 1500-2500 grit,some go alot coarser with hardened acylic enamel but you better practice first.Then buffing with a glaze.3m Perfect-it rubbing compound then 3m imperial glaze or 'similiar' is(I think) what the pros use??? Practice painting and color sanding before doing the car and "check fed. and state regulations".

Shrug---If you are using any kind of hardware store paint which does not use a hardner, then do not try to rub it out. That will destroy your paint job. The only paints which can be (or need to be) rubbed out are paints which have a hardner added to them. Enamel paints, (even catalyzed acrylic enamel paints with a hardner) are formulated to give a high gloss "as sprayed". Trying to rub out an enamel paint is similar to trying to polish a block of cheese---the substrate is simply not hard enough to ever polish. Instead it will go to a uniform dullness, that can not be repaired. Use the paint reducing (thinning) agent that the paint supplier recommends, and for your first experiments with spray painting, don't even think about using a high priced automotive paint from a body shop supplier. Do use a charcoal filter style respirator. Painting in an enclosed space with plastic drop sheets creates its own unique hazards---fire, explosion, or even suffocation through oxygen deprivation. A fan exhausting paint fumes from the room is simply another source of electrical spark to ignite this highly combustible vapour. I strongly suggest that for your first spray-painting experience that you either do it in the garage with the garage door fully open for air circulation, or do it outside (not in direct sunlight---and not when the temperature is over 80 degrees F) I am sure that your new syphon feed gun will have instructions on how to adjust it for the correct spray pattern. Thin the paint according to the manufacturers instructions and filter it just before you pour it into the gun cup. Spray at 40 to 45 PSI. The actual spray painting itself is reasonably simple. Always keep the gun moving. If you stop in any spot, you will instantly have a run. Keep the gun at a uniform distance from your car (about 12" to 15" as you spray). (any closer, you will get runs---any farther away and you will get "dry spots" that won't shine) Do not make short jerky movemnts, instead try and use long sweeping arm movements---but remember that even though you move your arm through an arc, you must keep the gun at a constant distance from your work (that is far easier said than done).---You will be amazed and impressed with what you are able to do. Do NOT try and apply too much paint at once. Your first time around the car, you may only barely see the colour you have sprayed on. Thats O.K.--let the paint flash off (dry) for about 20 minutes, then apply the second coat. The first coat will act as a "binder" to hold the second coat in place, so that it is less apt to run or sag. Wait 20 minutes and then apply the third coat.---that should be sufficient to get good "colour" on the car.

Hey that is great to know Brian. So then I can just shoot, throw on a coat of wax, and be done with it?

Is this what i am looking for: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTO-...04057060QQrdZ1

Single stage? It says it has hardener, but it also says wet look. Or do I need something that says no hardener required?

My Aunt had a ragedy Chrysler Fifth Avenue that had that bad Chrysler paint on it. She bought a can of some kind of housepaint. Stripped the old paint off and sanded, and then painted the car with a roller and brush. Then she buffed it out with a buffer and some compound for a couple of hours after the paint dried. That paint job looked better then the one that was on the car from the factory.

If that paint in the link is what you go with, then it will require the hardner that is shown with it. It will dry to a high gloss finish, and although it could be rubbed out, it shouldn't be necessary unless you get a lot of dust/dirt in the paint while spraying it. As far as wax goes, never wax any paint job untill it has cured for at least 3 months---why---well although the catalyzed paints cure quite thouroughly because of the hardner, there is still a fair bit of hardening happens by evaporation of the reducers or thinners in the paint, even though it feels dry on the surface. If you wax it too soon, the wax seals the surface of the paint against the atmosphere, and consequently the paint can not evaporate to cure fully. This will cause the paint to peel after about 6 months, because it buggers up the adhesion of the paint to whatever is under it. This is especially critical with unhardened alkyd enamels (as you would buy in the hardware store). A BIG WORD OF WARNING---The paint you show in the link says that it is a "metallic" paint. This is absolutely not a paint for beginners to use!!!! This paint is beautifull, because of the metallic particles in it. This paint is semi transparent, and the sunlight shines through it and reflects "sparkly" of the metallic powder that is buried in the paint when it is dried. These metallic particles are made by grinding up polished aluminum or mylar and mixing it in the paint. BUT---the fact that the paint is semi-transparent and the fact that it has these particles in it, make it an absolute son of a _ _ _ _ _ to paint with. Please don't use it---I gaurantee you will have a disaster on your hands. Use a "solid colour" paint for your first painting experience. A solid colour paint covers better, is less subject to runs and sags, and is generally somewhat cheaper. If you are going to do this, I want you to come away from it feeling good about what you have accomplished, not all P$&# off because you wasted a bunch of money and the paint job looks ugly as sin for everyone to see.

Ok, I see. Waxing is clear, I just thought it was needed to protect the paint.

As far as the metallic, that is not that actual color i was looking at. The guy has many many colors, I was just giving that as an example of the 'single stage" paint. In fact the color I would like is something similar to mist bluem which was a factory color. Metallic is too sporty for my Chrysler (actually so is the hood scoop, but I am stuck with that).

I guess my next step is pulling off about a mile of chrome trim without damaging it!

You guys rock, I feel prepared.

Leave the chrome on and cover it with masking tape.Thats how 99 percent of bodyshops do it. If you start pulling chrome off, your in for a world of hurt.

Well maybe I will just stick to removing the emblems. At least all I have there are a few screws.

Shrug, do yourself a favor. You're apparently an intelligent guy. Do some research on the web on painting a car, spraying paint, different paint types, etc...just do some reading first. I would not recommend buying paint on Ebay. Get it locally at an auto/paint shop or supplier. If you need anything additional, it will be easily available, plus if you have questions on how to mix it, or what else you need, you'll have the answers you need right there. Do not mask off any chrome that you can easily remove, that's how you do a real cob job. It might be your first attempt at painting, but that's not a reason not to do it right. If you read up enough, you'll do fine. Oh, and you do need to strain the paint before you spray it. You dont want anything getting stuck in your gun, or going thru and sticking right in your nice paint job. Im going to send you a PM on where to go for more help. You're a bigger man than I am apparently. If I were insulted by a member here as badly as you were, I would be long gone. Im amazed that some so called 'knowledgable' people can have no clue how to talk decently. Anyhow, look for a private message. John