Thread: engine painting

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I posted this in the paint section, and didn't get any replies. Maybe someone here can help out. I just need some advice on how to do this right the first time. I am in the process of building a Buick 364 nailhead engine for my rod. I've hot tanked all the parts and they are now down to bare metal. I have a bead blaster, should I bead blast the parts? What is the best and/or correct way to paint this engine so that it looks and holds up a long time. There will be very little plating if any on this engine. This is an open engine car, so the engine will be visible and exposed to the elements, not that it will be driven in adverse weather, but sometimes you get caught in it. Any help would be appreciated.

If you want an engine paint that will hold up, be easy to clean, and look great, forget the typical "rattle can" engine enamels. If you prep the engine by using a good quality dewaxer (as used in body painting) then grinding down any rough edges with a small grinding disc, and smoothing it as much as you want with a finer grit disc, you can spray the engine with epoxy primer (just like you use on bodies) and top coat it with your favorite enamel.

Some people think that anything but engine hi-temp paint will burn off, but this isn't true. The secret is to use epoxy primer first, and then simply top coat it in 2 or 3 coats with either a touch up gun or regular paint spray gun. Your local automotive paint store can fix you up with the correct stuff.

My '27 Ford engine was painted 12 years ago this way, was driven for 7 years in the sun and rain, and when I just tore it down for a rebuild it still looked very good.

Here is a picture of the 455 Olds we just painted for my Son's '29, using this method. It costs a little more than the spray can method, but there is no comparison and you can use any color you can buy for a car.

Here is another shot. He wanted the car to have a somewhat "oldtimey" look, so we didn't grind the block totally smooth. He wanted some casting roughness to show, so we only ground a little. But if you wanted to, you can grind the block to be as smooth as glass, and still get the paint to stick, using the epoxy primer routine.

i have painted many engines with auto paint enamels and two part urethane to. just wash good and use a etch prime the block and paint like itoldyouso said it get all the ruff and sharp spots off i do all the grinding and sanding before i do the final assembly on the engines the paint will stick very good to the ruff cast give the paint a tooth to hang on

This is the same Acrylic Enamel Paint that I painted the car with, the motor was red, so I put the block, heads and blower case in the cleaning vet. and when they came out the red paint was still there, so I painted the white over top of it, held up great, for about 3 yrs, and then the blower tuned pink. I tried them all, and reg. paint worked as well as any, if he block is clean.

Thanks guys, I'm going to take all the rough edges, and casting flash (there's a lot) off. Then I'll bring it the whole lot over to the body shop and let them shoot it.