Thread: Paint gun review

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Almost spreytech, the only thing i dont understand is HVLP does it mean High Volume Low Pressure? And yes, it sure helped out alot. There are not to many great painters around where i live. Most are just your basic body shops that do not like to do expensive paint jobs because they are not into that kinda thing , so to speek. They would rather just chage a fender or 2, sand the car down and put some colour on it.
Another question for ya,
This would concern a base coat clear coat with alot of depth to it. After spraying the 3-4 coats of colour, do you have to let it dry in between the colour and the clear, then use really light sand paper, sand it, then spray the clear on, or can you just wait till the base coat it tacky and spray the clear right over it. And how the hell do they get the clear to look like its 1/2" thick?????? Dam that looks good.
As you can see, ive only sprayed laquer with a hardner added to it. I want to paint my 1 ton this spring so im really eager to learn.

Originally Posted by maxed_out_rpms

Almost spreytech, the only thing i dont understand is HVLP does it mean High Volume Low Pressure? And yes, it sure helped out alot. There are not to many great painters around where i live. Most are just your basic body shops that do not like to do expensive paint jobs because they are not into that kinda thing , so to speek. They would rather just chage a fender or 2, sand the car down and put some colour on it.
Another question for ya,
This would concern a base coat clear coat with alot of depth to it. After spraying the 3-4 coats of colour, do you have to let it dry in between the colour and the clear, then use really light sand paper, sand it, then spray the clear on, or can you just wait till the base coat it tacky and spray the clear right over it. And how the hell do they get the clear to look like its 1/2" thick?????? Dam that looks good.
As you can see, ive only sprayed laquer with a hardner added to it. I want to paint my 1 ton this spring so im really eager to learn.

Yes HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure : Means it requires large amounts of Air Volume (CFM's)at inlet , and the gun head design inside makes the paint & air mixture spray at low pressure .
I use Iwata LVLP , and GEO makes a toploader gun that only requires 6.6 psi at the gun to work ( if you do not have a compressor enough to handle a HVLP )

Now on BC /CC : I shoot PPG and I usually let my base gas off for 10-5 minutes before clear coating , as I have a Heated downdraft booth , and my base gases off quick , so I can clear my base fairly quick .
All PAint manufacturers have different Temperature Solvents to Spray Base and clear in the Ambient Temperature your going to spray in .
And when you buy your paint make sure to get Product information sheets on the types of material your buying so you can get all the info of that product , it will give a gun setting , temp requirements , reduction ratios, drying times , tape times ( when its dry enough to lay tape stripes if your going to paint stripes on before clearing ) ..ect Those Info sheets are a wealth of info so please ask for them , it will help you alot in understanding what your about to spray .

Than after spraying your clear coat and letting dry its required time , you can water sand the clear with 1200-2000 grit sand paper ( to remove dirt and orange peel ) , and buff to the deep flat look you are seeing .
If you do a search on my name , I have given out alot of info here on BC/CC that may come in handy too .

Spray

PS: Do NOT forget to purchase a Charcoal respirator before spraying !!!!!!!
The stuff is deadly ! 3M makes disposable ones on the cheep in 3 sizes to fit your face.

Originally Posted by SprayTech

Yes HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure : Means it requires large amounts of Air Volume (CFM's)at inlet , and the gun head design inside makes the paint & air mixture spray at low pressure .
I use Iwata LVLP , and GEO makes a toploader gun that only requires 6.6 psi at the gun to work ( if you do not have a compressor enough to handle a HVLP )

Yup, for sure!!!! I got the Iwata that you perscribed for me a couple years ago and I love it!!!! My DeVilbiss became my primer gun and my Sata, well, it just hangs there on the hook neglected!!!! Best gun I ever had, bar none. I'm certainly no pro painter, but the Iwata made me look like one!!!!!

As to what Bob said about the prep work, it's crucial to get it right and keep going over it till it is right... Acouple more times around the car block sanding is what separates the REAL paint jobs from the pretenders. Takes a lot of patience to get the blocking right when all you want to do is see the car with color on it, but it's definitely worth the extra time.....