Thread: best way to stop rust?

Tweet

im thinking of buying a 72 gmc 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup and it has rusty cab corners and a right lower doorskin whats the best way to STOP the rust until i can get it fixed the right way? i was reading somewhere about rust-mort has anyone used it is it anygood?....scooter....thanks

Originally posted by gassersrule_196
im thinking of buying a 72 gmc 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup and it has rusty cab corners and a right lower doorskin whats the best way to STOP the rust until i can get it fixed the right way? i was reading somewhere about rust-mort has anyone used it is it anygood?....scooter....thanks

a long time ago. now this may sound dumb but rust-oleum red primer brushes it on. it is cheap and it works and put some paint over it if you do not care to much about looks. or pay the hi dollar for pors or eastwood makes some stuff. i have sprayed use engine oil in side the doors so it get in the pinch wells and seams

just a note on the rustoleum rattle cans. That stuff don't play well with others. Ya gotta strip it off if you decide to paint over it later. even if you try to cover it later with more rustoleum, it tends to bubble up.

You can however, spray as many coats as you want, as long as the cure time inbetween is minimal.

I learned this the hard way, painting some snowflake wheels. Cost me at least ten hours work before I figured out what the problem was.

Now, I avoid rustoleum. Quite franky, if ya gotta use rattlecan, Krylon is a better product.

If you are really looking for a quick ( cheap ) fix to stop the rust from spreading, grab a couple cans of epoxy ( appliance ) enamel. That will work just about as good as anything.

Originally posted by firebird77clone
just a note on the rustoleum rattle cans. That stuff don't play well with others. Ya gotta strip it off if you decide to paint over it later. even if you try to cover it later with more rustoleum, it tends to bubble up.

You can however, spray as many coats as you want, as long as the cure time inbetween is minimal.

I learned this the hard way, painting some snowflake wheels. Cost me at least ten hours work before I figured out what the problem was.

Now, I avoid rustoleum. Quite franky, if ya gotta use rattlecan, Krylon is a better product.

If you are really looking for a quick ( cheap ) fix to stop the rust from spreading, grab a couple cans of epoxy ( appliance ) enamel. That will work just about as good as anything.

yes it is oil base and it works good i said brush on not rattecan and i would think were this stuff was brush on it would get cut out and new steel welded in at a later date so you would have to be strip it down .

ah, missed the brush on part. Anyway, the rustoleum tip is good general knowledge.

Zero rust from JC whittney seems to do good as a brush on.

any thing that will seal out the water and air will work i have use epoxy resin or glass resin and brush it on

Pettit RustLok primer is amazing stuff. http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_b...asp?ictNbr=101

It can be brushed or sprayed, dries fast, and seals out moisture as well as an epoxy primer. It has excellent adhesion and is very resistant to chipping as well as chemicals. Even if you spill acetone or MEK on it, it will not lift.

Rust, blueing, browning. All are oxidation.
Rustoleum, in the brush on, has a fish oil additive. That penetrates the oxide points and prevents additional oxygen entry.
Oil floats on water.
Using oil over an oxidation point accelerates oxygen entry.
Oxpho contains rusting. It is a creamy liquid that has a phosphorus base. Phosphoric acid. It is similiar to Naval Jelly except it hardens and can be sanded.
None of these methods are a permanent solution.
When I do touch ups, I spray Easy Off oven cleaner on the "wound". This eats everything. I hose off and scrub with light dish soap and a 3M plastic sanding pad.
I then use Oxpho. After it hardens, I spray Krylon, which is acrylic. This makes an encapsulation and furthers the hardening of the Oxpho. It is like waxing over laminating resin to complete the cure.
After a few days, I sand the Oxhpo, Krylon, down to metal. I reapply Oxpho. I add Bondo where neccessary, apply fine filler, sand, and brush on Rustoleum.
It works better than than a bandaid. It is not the permanent solution, but it works longer than most other methods I have tried.
Rustmort is another alternative, if you can find it.

Don't let it start. Rust is going to happen no way to stop it. Sand blast and coat both sides of the metal with an epoxy primer will do the best at slowing the process down. Rustoleum is made with fish oil and does an adequate job, as long as you don't want to paint over it with any quaility auto paint.

well the rust is already there. in the cab corners and lower right door skin. the guy left a wet rag in the one cab corner so it ate it from the inside out!....scooter