Thread: Painting sequence???

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I was merely trying to direct you in a direction that would give you a good finish with the most cost effective results. I didn't want to overwelm you with terms that you may not understand. I could tell from your other posts that you were a novice. Everyone needs to start somewhere, but not everyone needs to be disappointed and broke at the same time . I'm confident that I know what products work well with novice painters. I'm in the industrial painting industry now after 25years of self employed autobody and refinishing. I am privledged to have many types of coatings at my disposal. PPG makes many fine products, but are not the only quality product available.

john deere blitz black is an enamel. How does this compare with the other single stage paints you described?

does my sequence look alright?

I did answer you but, I started a new thread. I guess I should stop trying to do more than one thing at a time

Ok so...?

epoxy primer
scuff
bondo
urethane primer
DCC

I'm sorry if I keep asking the same question but i need a straight ahead answer before I start.

I think you are to caught up on what sequence you should follow. Strip if needed
fabricate
epoxy
bodywork
2K or whatever
seal
paint
I would just do one at a time, this is going to take a good bit of time. Think each over before you start.

ok that makes sense. Thanks I will keep you guys posted!

Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
The sequence will depend on who you ask. On this list you will get a wide range of methods, so I guess I would tell you to pick one source for your info. That way you won't be trying to combine steps or materials that don't work together.

Two things scare me on your list:

Before I prime, I always treat with metal prep to stop any microscopic rusting that may have already started. The only acceptable alternative for me would be "self-etching" primer. This way you absolutely know that a year from now you won't see any rusting causing bubbled paint.

Also, I would never use bondo over anything but bare metal, unless the manufacturer advises that it's okay. The only thing I will personally use on top of paint is a two-part glaze that is designed for that purpose. You also use it after you've sanded the primer, to correct imperfections, but you'll have to seal those areas before paint.

I would add one more stage to the end of you list:

After your paint has dried, plan on sanding with very fine paper, then buffing. Unless it's a "rat bike", you probably won't get the kind of finish you really want, without doing this.

When you encounter problems...and you will.....just decide how to correct it, keep going, and learn from your mistakes. Each job will get a little better. I've been painting for 40 years, and I still have occasional problems, and still learn new things.

There is a guy on hotrodders.com that keeps asking the steps like this on the John Deere paint and guys told him to bondo over the primer. I said no that I always was taught over bare metal is the best. Of course they keep insisting that I am wrong (even though they didn't point blank say I was wrong) and said over primer. I say screw the other step and go bondo first. Reason why people prime and THEN bondo is if they strip the whole car and to help eliminate rust because if you strip to bare metal you wont get all the bondo work done in time and it will just rust the next day. See what I mean? Also be careful with a non sealed fan and lights or else you will have an explosion. You should be fine since many people have done this including me and haven't had a problem YET.

EXACTLY!!!!!! I KNOW that metal rusts that quickly AND bondo does not seal the metal. I may not get to spraying the bondoed repair for a week. I did not feel comfortable so was asking around if there were other ways to do it. PPG DOES suggest bondo over top of their epoxy primer to resist corrosion. I've been asking both places to get lots of opinions. You don't have to get defensive when all a newcomer to the art is trying to do is get all the info. he can.

btw maybe there is a chance that since (Quote from you) "they keep insisting that I am wrong (even though they didn't point blank say I was wrong) and said over primer." that maybe there's more than one way to do it, and for a guy who can't spend 12 hours at a time in the shop. epoxy primer THEN bondo would be a better option.

Oh and if the manufacturer of PPG, that is THE CHEMIST that DESIGNED PPG's paints, recommends their filler over epoxy primer then who would know better than the man who INVENTED IT!!!!

Woooow wow wow Deferr calm down man. I didn't mean nothing harsh by what I said at all. I guess after going back and reading it that it sounded that way but I didn't mean that. I was just saying. Yeah PPG is right, you can do it but I was always taught that if you can put it to bare metal then it's better to do that. Go ahead and use the PPG it will work and be fine. I usually would be pissed right now and stop helping you but now that I see that you misunderstood the tone that I was trying to make I wont. It is neither of our faults.

To put this to rest, epoxy primer first has been a standard restoration process for years. Not all filler will adhere to epoxy primer.Check the web site of your favorite filler for the info. I like a filler made by USG called Clear Coat, Marson makes Gold Bond, USG makes Rage and Tack Free they stick. Do your homework before you buy.

Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Woooow wow wow Deferr calm down man. I didn't mean nothing harsh by what I said at all. I guess after going back and reading it that it sounded that way but I didn't mean that. I was just saying. Yeah PPG is right, you can do it but I was always taught that if you can put it to bare metal then it's better to do that. Go ahead and use the PPG it will work and be fine. I usually would be pissed right now and stop helping you but now that I see that you misunderstood the tone that I was trying to make I wont. It is neither of our faults.

no problem. no problem. I did think that you were starting to get on me a little but it's cool just a misunderstanding.

Originally posted by deferr100001
no problem. no problem. I did think that you were starting to get on me a little but it's cool just a misunderstanding.

Heh no problem. I didn't make it sound like it should have so I made it like I didn't care and just wanted to get to the point. I was in a hurry to move my truck so typed it out real fast. Rage filler is good though. I used Evercoat Light Weight stuff, it was pretty good and cheaper than the Rage. I am sure PPG will know the best to use with that application your using. Are you going with BB or semi gloss from John Deere since I just saw that you are using it.

I THINK blitz black but I'm not real clear on what the semigloss looks like in contrast to the blitz black. Do you know of any examples or pics online I could look at???

No I actually don't. The thing about Blitz Black though is that it will fade. It fades and also it's a semi gloss too. The Semi Gloss is probably a better choice IMO if you want a flat look and when it fades it wont look as bad. They have high gloss as well which I will be buying and using on all the frames for my 66, 85 and 48. I will be buying some paint for my golf cart soon to paint and I think I will try the semi gloss. If so then I will give you some pictures of it.

Hey I found this pic last night. This is the finish look I want to got for. Oh and with the picture the guy said he had finished the car in blitz black.

What do you mean by "fade" blotchy or just universally duller??