Thread: Clear coat questions

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mopar ,
you might try using the D870 or the D871 faster reducers .
You shouldn't have any problems in a garage as I have sprayed it in my garage on overalls with no problems , just make sure you have good ventilation , and keep the fan running overnight with fresh air coming in to keep from having die back , this will also help in dry times , as pulling the gases out helps in dry times .

Heres a site you may want to keep in your favorites .

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp

click on the Product information tab , and then use the drop down window for the product you have in mind , all the info is right there .
Even the P-sheets , that explains the product in question .

SprayTech

Ok well i'll give it a try, I do have a binks booth it's just not a bake so i have plenty of air flow, but i'll give it a try... i've got a few air-rides to install so it might be a few weeks.. but i'm gonna try something and this sounds about the best...

THANKS MUCH

I think if your using the Global base , you will like the results of using the global clears .
They also have the Overall high solids Clear too .
D894 I believe , and they also have a slower Catalyst for slowing down the dry times . works in both clear products .

But you being way up north , I dont think thats going to be your problem ....LOL

Spray

Ok well thanks for all the help, i'm gonna give one of these a try.

just talked to my paint rep and without me saying anything about what clears i'd like to try,,, they suggested 2 clears for my applications, they said to try the 894 and the 4001 clear.. so I think since you said to try the 894 i'm going to try it... has anyone here tried the 4001 clear? and if so what are it's characteristics.. thanks in advance

I have not tried the new 4001 as of yet , as I have such good results with the Global 893 , I see no reason to change .

My old helper that is lead painter at a shop is using it and likes it .

I have a system that works every time and do not change just for the hell of it , its what makes me money .


SprayTech

ok.. I was just wondering if anyone has tried it on here,, i'm guessing not... so i'll just go with the 894 to see how that works... they say a bunch of guys around here are using it and loving it so i'll give it a try.

Mopar, I looked at your clear you have in your tools cataloge. I was thinking about seeing how you paint your vehicles since you said you can get this stuff for cheap (and yes the price is cheap) but I just am not sure how long it will last. I would like for this paint job to last 5-7 years. 5-7 years meaning it will be outside a lot and in rain a bit but then again not getting totally abused and will be taken care of, waxed, etc...

I'm not sure how long the xtreme clear last,, never tried it... someone on here posted use of it, you'd probably have to ask him.... I would guess it would be ok for a driver, but without knowing I don't think i'd want to put it on something that would be show quality.

and click on my camera thing next to my screen name and you can see some of the things I painted.. most things there were painted with transtar clear, and it looks good, i'm just wondering if the expensive clears are really that much better... as of now i'm finding it hard to believe but i'm going to give it a try...

Mopar, It seems to me that the major difference between clears would have to be how they spray, how they buff, and how long they live, without cracking, peeling or chalking out. Fading sure ain't a problem!!! :-)~

Still, you've got to ask why all of the major brands a more pricey.....unless of course, you believe in government conspiracies!

Mopar, I have a question. Kind of off topic but will talk to you in more detail later. Anyways, I just got another job doing a car that needs a bit of work with lots of dents, some rust and needs a new paint job. It's a everyday driver and the guy doesn't need a pro paint job on it. He want's single stage. So here is what I need to do. I will need to buy sand paper and everything in between and thought that I may go with you to get the stuff.
I will scuff the old paint (probably with 400). But what should I finish the bondo off before priming over it, 180 or 220?
Also should I primer over the ENTIRE old paint job or just the bondo and body work spots? Last car I did I went over the whole thing with 400 and then primed the entire car but had more coats over the bondo work.
Any idea's here that you can put in STEPS to help me out? SprayTech helped me out a ton but I just kind of forgot the steps here. I have some written down but for some reason I left some out and getting all stressed out over this because I need to get a price list for the guy in the next 2-3 days, estimated time it will take to do the car, etc. Also any tips of a chart to help me out to stay more organized here and to help me not get stressed and lay everything that I need to do out?
I am going to copy and paste this thing tonight when I get home from class at the college and I will number my questions too since I need to know what primer and paint to use as well.
Thanks a lot!

well as far as primer goes, i'd say it this way if your fixing just spots here and there I would definetly just spot prime it, it'll save you a ton of time and money, but if you get to the point were your fixing alot of spots on all the panels you might want to prime it all. but for primer i usually prime at 180 grit. as far as sandpaper goes, I really like the mirka for the price,, I was using mirka before I sold it.. so it's cool that i can get it from myself now so to speak.

I just read again and noticed you said single stage, for single stage the 400 grit will be fine enough, but you don't want to spray anything with metallic, it'll look blotchy and possibly streaky, so that i will kinda limit your color choices. but if you can find a color without metallics i'd say that your heading in the right direction

Yes Mirka I have used before and for the price it isn't bad. Also the guy wanted a dark blue but we told him that a lighter color on a Toyota Carola everyday car is better. So the guy supposedly said any light cream color will be fine. I am guessing a kind of light grey, cream white, light tan. Anything like that.