Thread: engine paint

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I was wondering if anybody has used Plasti-kote engine enamel and if so how did it work for youand did it last??. I would hate to go to all the trouble of painting a whole engine and it not last very long. TKS for your feedback.

Originally posted by Larry 31
I was wondering if anybody has used Plasti-kote engine enamel and if so how did it work for youand did it last??. I would hate to go to all the trouble of painting a whole engine and it not last very long. TKS for your feedback.

Larry, don't know about Plasti-kote I always use VHT engine paint, if prepped correct will last for years.


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hi Larry i used to use dollar store paint for a long time, but u cant recoat it after the next day. my best success was using metal etching epoxy primer then about any kind of enamel . spray bomb,or car body paint with or without hardner,depends on how much u have to spend on each engine project. we used to regasket and paint used engines before we swapped em just to make us feel better about driving ratty cars. at least we didnt get dirty working around them . Ives rdhotfrd

Larry,

I've been using this stuff for 5 or 6 years now on about every engine and engine part that I paint. I've gotten excellent results with it. It covers well, and dries fairly quickly, and the color is consistent from can to can. I usually sandblast most of the parts that I paint, and the Plasti-Kote sticks to a sandblasted surface so well that laquer thinner doesn't hardly affect it.

I've painted two Chevy engines (one orange and one blue), one Ford (dark blue), and a Toyota (Pontiac metallic blue), and I've yet to lose any paint off of them.

I had used Krylon in the past, but it is very soft, and tends to dissolve even in gasoline, which makes it just about useless for a gasoline engine! I've used VHT on headers, but not much else since it's so expensive (and hard to paint with in my opinion). I think Rustoleum is a pretty good paint as well, but it takes forever to dry, and that's a pain when you have to paint something on more than one side.

I think the key to getting the best performance out of any paint is to prep the surface before you shoot it. If you leave rust or aluminum oxide on the surface, the paint probably won't stick very long. I realize that not everybody has access to a sandblaster, but it really is the best way to prep a metal surface for painting. In fact, it's been the only way that I've been able to remove the paint from a surface that was blasted before I painted it.

At any rate, I wouldn't hesitate to use Plasti-Kote engine enamel, it has worked well for me on many occasions.

Randy

Tks Randy, I.m about a week away from painting my engine and I had it all dipped before all the machining was done so all the old paint and stuff is gone. I am going to use the Plati-Kote paint so thanks again so all the information. Larry.

I used house of kolor High heat black paint. They say it will withstand up to 1400 degrees. I painted my harley engine and it came out great. That was about 1 year ago. There is no reduction or activator it is ready to spray. just put it in your gun and shoot.

Originally posted by Larry 31
Tks Randy, I.m about a week away from painting my engine and I had it all dipped before all the machining was done so all the old paint and stuff is gone. I am going to use the Plati-Kote paint so thanks again so all the information. Larry.

I would still sandpaper every thing with 220, then de grease everthing before ya paint, I use non chlorinated brake clean.

I use POR-15 engine paint. Has a nice shine and will outlast the motor. cheers robert

A friend painted his Chevy motor with the POR-15 engine paint and it is sharp. My problem is that they don't make Ford Blue.

Dave

Dupli Color engine enamel works fine for me. I paint all exzaust parts with hi temp engine and headder paint that dupli color makes, it works great because it don't go rusty till about a year or so, even in these salty NY roads in the winter.