Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: paint lifting
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 19 of 19
  1. #16
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
    Posts
    3,890

    First, you should have a small regulator attached to the handle of your spray gun - right where the air hose attaches. If you regulate pressure at the compresor, you don't know what pressure you have at the gun because of the line loss in the air hose.

    At the cap literally means inside the spray cap at the front of the gun where the paint and air mix. They make special gauges for that, but usually if you get the right pressure at the gun, the pressure at the cap will be close.

    For instance, my Binks HVLP gives 10 PSIG at the cap with 18 PSIG at the gun.

    What gun do you have, and is it HVLP?
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  2. #17
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Shelton
    Posts
    693

    On the bottom of the grip is an adjustment screw for internal gun pressure for feed to the cap- you can over-adjust and push the same amount as you do thru your gun regulator.......this is not good, and although you may get away with it with two stage paint, with single stage your atomization will suffer- thus orange peal.
    I have 7 different guns that I use when I work........for color I use my Iwata, clears I like my Sata......jambs Devilbiss (all HVLP) and for high pressure work my Binks (large flake) even though they are now outlawed here in Wa.
    They all adjust differently- but your cap pressure for HVLP is 10, almost always. I have seen people push too much pressure thru HVLP guns & blow the seals out.
    If your using HVLP then you need to get a set of cap gauges....your higher quality guns come with them. Some you have to buy them seperate, but you do need them. How can you tell where you are if you don't know where you started??
    I guess what I'm trying to say is it's two different settings- done at two different places on your gun.
    Jim

  3. #18
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    oohhhhhhh,
    ok, well I haven't been using the regulator that screws on the gun, only because my comp. has one and I figured the line pressure couldn't be dropping too much in that short length. I don't know what I have at the cap though. I've just been adjusting it so it looks like it is spraying right, it obviously isn't though. It is HVLP by the way.
    I'll have to get a cap pressure guage before the spring when I start painting again.
    Either that or I can just name my car the "orange peel Mobile" and pretend like I made it that way on purpose.
    Thanks guys.

    Where can I get a good cap guage?
    Last edited by tcodi; 11-23-2004 at 04:41 AM.

  4. #19
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Shelton
    Posts
    693

    Your local auto paint supplier can get one for you, and don't forget to get a Viscosity cup
    Jim

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink