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So can someone possibly get me the measurements of the 1/2 ton PU length and width and heigth PLEASE!!!! i am trying to see if i might be able to get it into my garage. well the height is the only thin that really limits me if i can get it in there, but the length and width are needed as well so i can move some of the other crap around and out of my way.
Thanks in advance.
Can someone explain to me or maybe show a couple pics of how the cowl vent opens/ closes? It looks like i may be missing some parts so if someone maybe has a picture or diagram of the mechanism that opens and clsoes the cowl vent i would greatly appreciate it!!!
Also, can someone please see how tall their 40, 41, 46 ford truck is please. I want to get it home but have to make sure it FITS first! Thanks everyone!
I can't help you much as I don't have a 40-41 truck, but I'm guessing the top of your roof isn't over 6' if by much. I can get you pics of a 40 car cowl vent as my dash is out of mine right now.
Ryan, that truck should be very nearly the same height as your '40 sedan, I'd bet. Of course, vehicle height is also going to be dependent on the suspension setup, wheel & tire size, and ride height, right? I've had friends with lifted Jeeps on really big tires drop them down to 3-4 psig to get in & out of their garage, but that's a big hassle, having to back out and then air up to use the vehicle on the road.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Roger, I was thinking the same thing about the car and truck setting about the same height. Mine before was probably 5.5' tall at the roof no more than 5'10" I'm guessing.
Cool! i would appreciate it! Atleast it might be something to go off of!Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
And thats the thing, my garage door is about 6'6" MAYBE... By the way, i did NOT design this garage lol. Right now i would just say that it is a stock ride height.
yeah, one of my dads buddies has a lifted jeep, has to put smaller tires on it... http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...pse45bc22a.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb828b48.jpg
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...ps84ce6043.jpg
Not really looking to have to drop tire pressure to be able to get outside to play lol.
So a buddy of mine at work (he is a chevy guy) has had this 302 sitting in his garage for the last year or two. He got it from one of his buddies who bought a mustang and didnt need the engine.
My buddy says that he will sell it to me for 250 BUCKS!!!! From what i hear this is a ford crate motor with about 5K miles on it. No carb, not sure on intake, i am also not sure on headers either... But when i go to check out this motor, is there anything i should really be looking at??? See if i can get the heads pulled??? He said that he turned it over by hand last week, said it still had great compression (i know not to go off the old "feels like" test). I just have never bought an engine before and he is a good buddy and dont think he would knowingly scr3w me, just want to cover all of my bases.
The VIN is located on top of the driver's side of the frame near the front. Don't be surprised if you can't find it. It may be covered with rust It is also stamped on the top center of the bell housing. It wil start and end with * (stars) It will look something like this *I8-1111111*. Supposedly it is also located near the rear of the drivers side frame rail, but I have never seen one there.Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
Right on, thanks for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by LjH
Being over an hour drive to where the truck is at right now, i am not really sure as to when i will be able to make it over there. Since there is not title, i was told that you can take the VIN to the county sherrifs office, they run the number and if everything checks out good they give you a piece of paper that you can take to the Secretary of state office to get a title for it. Does anyone have any experience in doing this?
It's different in every state so you might look online for your state's DOT site and see what they have on there about it.
OKAY!!! so i sealed the deal on an "almost new" 302 long block. Below is a list of what i have kinda been looking at for the motor. Let me know if you see something that may not work or if you know of somthing that would be better.
REALLY want to put in a Mutha Thumpr cam :D
Headman long headers
-have not thought about the rest of the exhaust.
Holly 500CFM single carb
Edelbrock for an intake
Rear sump oil pan
Needs a starter
needs alternator and bracket - thoughts? not sure really on what size i would need...
looking to go with a V-belt
Eventually i want to go with a M II front end but for stage 1 of this build will see if it will be easier keeping it stock.
Brakes... have not looked at yet.
ELECTRICAL... buddy just told me about ISIS Power Products. Like a PLC for your car! check it out, some cool stuff.
Isis Power | Products
Transmission... not entirely decided yet.
Rear end is not stock but not sure what it is (fingers crossed a 9 inch)
Still working on getting the title in hand... god i want to start working on this...
Meanwhile i am sitting here thinking about suspension and what i want to run...
So a big question i find me asking myself is, "Do i want to run Air Ride suspension?" Why would i not want to run an air ride suspension? It is cool as hell and i am sure the "performance" doesnt stand up to coil-overs, but i am also not going to be taking this to road courses either.
My second note of discussion with myself is that i know i am going four link. But what kind of four link should i run? Ladder bar? Triangulated? I really want to keep my bed as functional as possible. I am not looking to drop my truck to the ground with this either. Any input would be helpful.
1) air ride yes or no
a) if no, why?
2) rear suspension: what type of fourlink would work best for an air ride system while keeping the truck bed functional?
(as of right now i am thinking about doing an air ride setup until i am convinced otherwise)
A properly designed & installed air ride can be at least equal to other suspensions. The guys at RideTech have before & after data on muscle cars showing greatly improved g-forces with bags on road courses, but then again what do you expect as they want to sell product. The guy that turned in the best times on the flat track autocross course at the KC Goodguys a couple of years back was a mid-30's truck dropped in the weeds on bags.
If it were me I'd go triangulated four link in the back as it's self centering and doesn't need a panhard bar.
Thanks, sounds good to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears