It's different in every state so you might look online for your state's DOT site and see what they have on there about it.
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It's different in every state so you might look online for your state's DOT site and see what they have on there about it.
OKAY!!! so i sealed the deal on an "almost new" 302 long block. Below is a list of what i have kinda been looking at for the motor. Let me know if you see something that may not work or if you know of somthing that would be better.
REALLY want to put in a Mutha Thumpr cam :D
Headman long headers
-have not thought about the rest of the exhaust.
Holly 500CFM single carb
Edelbrock for an intake
Rear sump oil pan
Needs a starter
needs alternator and bracket - thoughts? not sure really on what size i would need...
looking to go with a V-belt
Eventually i want to go with a M II front end but for stage 1 of this build will see if it will be easier keeping it stock.
Brakes... have not looked at yet.
ELECTRICAL... buddy just told me about ISIS Power Products. Like a PLC for your car! check it out, some cool stuff.
Isis Power | Products
Transmission... not entirely decided yet.
Rear end is not stock but not sure what it is (fingers crossed a 9 inch)
Still working on getting the title in hand... god i want to start working on this...
Meanwhile i am sitting here thinking about suspension and what i want to run...
So a big question i find me asking myself is, "Do i want to run Air Ride suspension?" Why would i not want to run an air ride suspension? It is cool as hell and i am sure the "performance" doesnt stand up to coil-overs, but i am also not going to be taking this to road courses either.
My second note of discussion with myself is that i know i am going four link. But what kind of four link should i run? Ladder bar? Triangulated? I really want to keep my bed as functional as possible. I am not looking to drop my truck to the ground with this either. Any input would be helpful.
1) air ride yes or no
a) if no, why?
2) rear suspension: what type of fourlink would work best for an air ride system while keeping the truck bed functional?
(as of right now i am thinking about doing an air ride setup until i am convinced otherwise)
A properly designed & installed air ride can be at least equal to other suspensions. The guys at RideTech have before & after data on muscle cars showing greatly improved g-forces with bags on road courses, but then again what do you expect as they want to sell product. The guy that turned in the best times on the flat track autocross course at the KC Goodguys a couple of years back was a mid-30's truck dropped in the weeds on bags.
If it were me I'd go triangulated four link in the back as it's self centering and doesn't need a panhard bar.
Thanks, sounds good to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I went with triangulated 4 link in the rear of my 40 for the reasons Roger mentioned. I'm going air ride with leveling valves with a dump switch to operate it at this time. It may change if I chase the correct rainbow. :LOL:
If you're still looking for guidance on titling and registration, you should take a very close look at the following link. Buying a complete car with out a title can be a major risk. You should be sure you can obtain a title before you drop a lot of money on a build. My impression is that you will likely have to title/register it as an "assembled vehicle," since you're using a different engine, frame, trans and differential. Also, from scanning the information, you need to save your receipts. It would also be smart to check with some local Michiganders for their experiences.
http://www.bipac.net/semaga/TagTitleToolbox_MI.pdf
Then, pull any recommended forms the site mentions and see what information is needed.
Holy cow, that is some night stand reading there... Thanks for the information. I am thinking that my original bill of sale that i had typed up might not meet their standards. I think i might just swing by the Secretary of States website and print off a copy of their bill of sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Question: When applying for a title, they require information on the engine and trans, where you got it/ how much it cost etc. Well, i just want to get a title for this thing and since it has the original motor/trans should i just title it with that? Because i am going to be putting a 302 with a tremec t5.
If you can get it titled before you modify it you'll save yourself a ton of paperwork and very likely a bunch of money, too. The problem you may face is getting it titled if it's not "operable" or "road worthy". Some people will tell you "....oh, just go get it registered on the parts & pieces" but they haven't done it lately. Times have changed, and laws have changed in most states, and the "Assembled Vehicle" classification is becoming the norm. Jack is giving you good advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
Anyone in the south east Michigan area know of a reputable engine builder who wont break the bank. I know you get what you pay for, but sometimes one guys hourly rate is a bit less than anothers. I would like to learn HOW to rebuild an engine, i just lack the necessary tools and knowledge/guidance.
How far is Pat McCarthy from you? I'm pretty sure he'd be worth the drive if I were you.
Thanks, Bay City is about an hour and a half north of me. I PM'd him. But as for now, the project is on hold so my fiance and i can afford our wedding, lol. AS soon as that is done and the honeymoon thing, and a new house, this project is going to be unleashed. My current garage would not be very accomodating for this type of project right now... and is filled with my jetski projects anyways.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
This was last spring after i had finished it.
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...psedkcrkgp.jpg
How she sits now, waiting for my engine :CRY:
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...psv6zmdyfl.jpg
Give it time, it's always going to be something. Nice jet skit by the way. I hope you can get it going soon.
can someone help me out...what size are the bolts for an intake for a 302? I bought this motor and got an intake but no intake bolts came with it.
You can find your bolts here.
302 Ford intake bolts
Just a gentle suggestion. You might want to try a Google search or a search on Summit before asking on the forum. I don't mind looking things up, but you'll get a quicker answer if you try those searches first. Besides, it's good parts hunting experience.
Thanks jack. The newbish tendencies still get the best of me sometimes :HMMM:. Yeah after I posted I realized a have a whole slew of auto parts stores near me. I called a couple and found one that have some in stock.
I spent nearly three hours today scrapping and cleaning the engine this evening. Which led me to wonder what year my engine was. Found some info on the interweb but the numbers I found on the block do not correlate to the info I was finding. Not sure how to upload pics from my phone so I will get them up at work tomorrow.
Ok so i have looked around and what i had found on my block is not really matching up with what i am finding.
What Year is of my ford 302 motor? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
This was just one of a few places i had looked. Here are the only numbers i could find on my block. (unless i couldn't find it because the paint is peeling and bubbling so bad)
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...pslmpjb7ji.jpg
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...pshlrpgnqh.jpg
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...psiuiwxkxo.jpg
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6gcmwupl.jpg
The only numbers that really seem to make sense here would be in the 3rd pic (2A11)
4th pic reads 'E0AE' (top) and 'D3C' (bottom) I cannot find a casting number like that of the one in the link i shared above.
What do you think, may this number be hiding under the paint? Would the fact that this was a crate motor (from what i have been told) make any difference?
Look on the passenger side of the block, just above the starter. You should find a code there, four digits followed by a space, then four more. You'll look at the first two digits of the first group of four, an Alpha followed by a number. A "C" is the '60's, "D" is the '70's, "E" is the '80's and "F" is the '90's. If you find "D4" your engine was built in 1974, or an "E9" is 1989. I would expect crate engines to follow the same format, but I'm not 100% on that. One source - http://www.ehow.com/how_6766007_deco...ng-number.html
yeah i checked that site out as well. I am going to have to go over that block with a grid system to make sure i am not missing it, but the second two pics are on the right side of the motor right above where the starter would be.
Wouldn't the E0AE tell you 1980 (E0), Galaxie, Engine Group from that link?Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
so we're having a hard time getting intake manifold bolts?????????????and we need the block origin year and vehicle???? what heads and intake would maybe make a difference in case the heads or manifold aren't original but you can probably do a Summit/Jegs search for Arp intake manifold bolt kit-----------
That is what i was thinking but the AE does not correlate to any other SN's i have seen
Jerry, i am heading to a parts shop near me today to pick up some intake bolts. Hope they work
Copied direct from the link above:Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
1
Decode the first character letter. Ford casting numbers always start with a letter for “Decade,” according to Classicmustang.com. A Ford 302 engine can trace its roots to 1962 when it was first introduced in a Ford Fairlane. It remained in production till the mid 1990s.
In the 1960s, Ford started using the numbering structure with the first letter being “C.” In 1970s, it changed to “D” and so on. For instance, if the casting number is C5ZZ-2140-CR, the decade number is “C” or 1960s.
2
Decode the second number. The second number in the code is always the manufacturing “Year.” For the example above; C5ZZ-2140-CR, the manufacturing year would be 1965.
3
Decode the third character. This represents the vehicle line. Letters A, F, J, O, R, T, Z, D, G, M, P, S and V represent car lines Galaxie, Outside U.S., T/A Racing, Industrial, Fairlane/Torino, Rotunda, Truck, Mustang, Falcon (60-69), Comet/Montego, Mercury, Autolite/Motorcraft, Thunderbird and Lincoln (61+), respectively.
4
Decode the 4th digit. This digit identifies the engineering group of Ford that designed the part and the component group it belongs to. For instance, A, C, E, F, H, J, M, P, R, U, X, Y and Z represent Truck division, Body and electrical, Engine group, General parts/Electrical and Electronic, Climate Control, Autolite/Ford parts and Service division, Performance vehicle and Holman Moody, Automatic Transmission, Manual Transmission, Axle and Driveshaft, Special vehicle parts (muscle parts) or Emissions or Economy, Lincoln and Mercury service parts and Ford service parts/Aftermarket parts, respectively.
Cleaned the crap out of my valve covers and got them painted up nice. It is a bad pic, i hadn't cleaned them up after the polishing compound.
http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/...pssovwyd3k.jpg
Looking at the intake that came with the motor, is an '82. Just does NOT seem to line up right. doesnt really matter i guess, goin with an aftermarket intake anyways... Just got to do some research on inake/carb combo's. It would be sweet to get one of Procharger's superchargers on this eventually. make for a nice sleeper.
I was thinking about painting this motor a deep gold color. With the black truck, black intake/headers, with polished pullies/etc, i think it would look sick.
I still have trouble picturing "sick" as meaning "cool". Just too old I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
.
Sorry for my newbish comments guys...
Good news though, Possibly closing on a house here in the next month (then getting married Nov.29th!) EESH gunna be a busy month...
But this house has TWO two car garages, one with 200 amp service to it! Should HOPEFULLY be able to get my truck into a garage and start working on it soon!
Bad news... taking the old water pump off, broke one of the bolts off inside the block:mad:
Bolt was rusted pretty bad and snapped flush with the block. Been sprayin it every couple days with WD40. Need to get a bolt extractor set then back to work.
Question... How worried would you be it you were to have pulled a water pump off and RUST fell out! I am not looking to tear this motor apart and do a full rebuild right now if at all possible... Would you feel confident in doing a good coolant flush?
Yep! Sure, give it a good flushing, in one side and out the other, then reverse the flow and see what comes out.Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
Flush until clean and don't be surprised by the stains you leave in the driveway! BTDT!
Good thing ive got a gravel driveway, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Thanks for the advice, that was what i was thinking. I just dont want to end up doing something stupid and ruining the motor and yall sayin, "WTF did you do THAT for!?" lol
No such thing as a "newbie" question around here, just evidence of someone who knows enough to ask when encountering a new situation!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord
As for the broken stud, plain old WD-40 probably won't do it! You need a good penetrating oil designed to loosen rusted pieces! I use a product called PB Blaster, might want to try it or something similar. I believe that the WD company now has a product out that is a penetrating oil rather then just the usual WD---
X2 on the WD-40.. it's for drying wires, hence the name W.D. ...
I like Kroil for a penetrant. and if you can get it red hot then try to loosen or get it hot and then let it cool that might help too.
Welcome - Good Luck - and above all ENJOY your Project/Hobby. I promise you that no matter how many you may happen to build during your life, you will remember and talk about this one forever.
meller
I have to say Kroil works better than PB blaster IMO, especially when the material is hot.
I have never heard of Kroil... i will have to look into it. Thanks for the info and insight gentlemen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Great stuff, nobody around here even handles it anymore!