Thread: New Member from Nebraska. 1934 Ford 5-window

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Kool project man. I too wish mine wasn't chopped. I like to run em east coast style (unchopped). I too am building a 34 but mine is a tudor and I'm going fenderless.

Exhaust system installed. Much better now!! Took it for a quick drive up the blacktop..oh my,,, it wants to "move it move it"

Hi Jack, what sort of mufflers did you decide on to give that puppy the right required sound out the back ? Must be good cruising again if only a short distance to check out the exhaust ?

I think they are Flowmasters. A nice mellow sound. I didnt want loud mufflers as I want a fairly quiet ride for cruising. I am really happy with them.

I bet that's great to drive it! Congrats!

Vintage Air completed. (These cars are definately short on extra space to put things) And starting to fit front sheetmetal.





With the help of the Davies Craig Electric Pump. The system controls the temp and fan and no need for a thermostat. The EWP installs between the lower radiator and gutted (no impeller) GM water pump.

It looks really nice.

Thanks Ryan! it is starting to be fun now. A lot of the headaches are, I think, over. That is fitting everything including, I hate, brakes!
By the way,,,putting Defrosters on a 34 Dash is rocket science. I deemed it impossibe several times I attemped, but finally did design a way. Never again ~ the clearance between the dash top and body + the curvature of the dash into the body does not leave any extra room for ducts. Been there done it ~ never again.

Originally Posted by jkeech39

....Never again ~ the clearance between the dash top and body + the curvature of the dash into the body does not leave any extra room for ducts. Been there done it ~ never again.

I found it easier to use the dash top & body as the duct, blocking the outer ends with some fiberglass & filer with a 2" hose adapter as opposed to trying to get the duct up to a direct mount vent. Pressurize the volume and it blows out the slots to the windshield. Of course I'm working with glass vs metal, but it worked pretty slick.

Initially that was my plan. (to block the outer ends) I made fiberglass ducts from the body up to the dash top and getting them sealed and in at the same time the dash was installed was a real beotch. My defrosters are blowing air ok but not a great whirlwind ~ but it should be good enough to clear off the windshield.. If that doesnt work, I can always crank the windshield open. I'm thinkin the defrosters will not be ample for winter defrost but just the fog that happens on a humid morning. The kind that just won't go away.

Radio installed with Amp. I guess the airplane fixer led me to the radio rack idea. Also the Controller mounted there is the engine thermostat. It controls the water pump at set temperature and controls the electric fan. (Davies Craig)
I wanted the dash to remain pretty much intact. I like old car dashes and the way they were designed.

I have to agree with you Jack , the original dash panels on the '33/'34 Fords are gorgeous with the flowing curves so I can understand not wanting to carve it up much. I do like the use of the '40 dash panels fitted to earlier cars like the '32's but it has to be done right otherwise it can look like shit. I do like the photo of your car with the front sheet metal and headlights fitted too.

Whiplash... you live in beautiful country...

Very nice work! Is the radio hard to reach down there? I'm thinking of moving mine down lower but not sure how it will be.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Very nice work! Is the radio hard to reach down there? I'm thinking of moving mine down lower but not sure how it will be.

I can reach it ok but probably will use the remote most of the time. I prefer utilizing the ipod or cd disc so that will be less fumbling with the radio controls. Its really not as far back as the picture appears. I won't try and adjust anything while driving ~ for safety reasons. I think the bigger issue is that the newer radios have such small control buttons. Everything that controls it is puny.
The only thing is when I shut of the Battery Ground (Battery kill switch), I lose the memory on the radio settings. I did run a ground wire separate to the radio and that should hold memory when the master power Ground is disconnected.

This picture shows the framework I made to lay up the fiberglass transmission cover. With the 700R4, it made it tricky. This worked well. Applied thin cardboard and then plastic sheeting before laying on the Fiberglass mat. Made a mold for the Transmission cover. Used aluminum angle from the hardware store. The cover is easily removed and will slip over the shifter and brake if needed. I wanted something not welded so I could have easy access if needed.



And Finished ~ covered with sound proof Dynamat.