It will be badass when done!:D:D:LOL::LOL:
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It will be badass when done!:D:D:LOL::LOL:
Been dealing with a sore throat and sinus infection for the last week. Was feeling much better today, so I decided that my compromised respiratory system needed a good dose of fiberglass/bond dust to make my recovery move right along.:whacked:
Got around to finishing the front inner fender/headlight covers. Spent most of the day filling and sanding and I'm pleased with final result. I was going to finish them with undercoating, but it's been suggested that spray truck bed liner might be better.
Any thoughts??
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I hope after all that work you are feeling better! It looks great too!
Wes - I used the truck bed liner on the underside of my fenders and the forward parts of the body and it works very well, particularly to reduce paint stars. The only advice I can give you on that 'stuff' is that overspray, and you will have some, is a real bear to get off. I still have a few speckles on one rocker that 3 years later are defying my attempts at removing. Oh and the sinus infection - I found that the 5 day course of pills didn't last. It came back!!! In spades!! I'll be again going to the doc this week:mad:
Nice detail Wes. Don't know much about glass to add any info towards undercoating.
Still working under the front fenders. Quite a while ago, I started making a block off panel behind the front tires. It'll keep crud thrown up by the front tires from getting to the door hinges and side vents.
I hot glued floral blocks to the under side of the cheek panel and shaped them until I got a curvature I liked.
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I removed the assembly, covered the blocks with foil and coated them with a layer of fiberglass cloth. After removing the blocks, the new piece fits nicely between the cheek panel and unibody. But there is still a gap I'll have to close.
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Using some sheet metal, I attached a sheet of fleece to the bottom of the upper frame rail. A little resin and it conforms to, and holds the shape of, the old body.
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I reattached the cheek panel with the new block off and wrapped the fleece around the edges, pulling everything good and tight. More resin...
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... and it all comes off as one piece.
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All three pieces are tacked together only where there was actual contact with the wet resin. I reinforced all joints and filled any voids with fiberglass matting and filler. After some trimming and sanding, it's still pretty rough, but it'll get a lot more attention before finished.
Wes,
Check out Herculiner - Herculiner Truck Bed Liners It goes on with a roller, so you can easily control "overspray" issues with masking. I used it on the bottom of my '33, and it's great! Use at least two coats.
Thanks Roger, that looks like the best way to go.
That's some good planning and nice glass work on the inside!!!! Sure will help to keep the muck off the tires from getting all over everything. The Herculiner is also great for keeping the star cracks out of 'glass fenders!!!!
Almost there.
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As usual I got a little impatient to see the final look, so I glued some mesh behind the side vents using a couple globs of filler. I'll grind it out later and replace it with something that will be removable.
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Primed gray and black... ready to go back on for trial period before final paint.
Now all I have to do is make one for the drivers side. :o
The driver side was much simpler, and cleaner, since I was able to make a cardboard pattern from the passenger side.
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I left the screen on one side black and painted the other silver for comparison. It's interesting how much easier it is to see through the black screen.
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With both cheek panels reinstalled the exterior feels almost complete. Thinking about a billet style grill for the front.
Something like this Camaro maybe.
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Had some time this weekend, so I started some of the interior work. I need to create new panels to separate the trunk from the passenger compartment and cover the added reinforcing steel. I made several attempts to generate patterns out of cardboard. I thought that would be simplest route. Wrong! A total waist of time. Too many square corners. Stretching fleece over such a large area seemed like the best way to go, but I wasn't sure how to secure the material under the lip of the rear tub while applying resin.
Here's what I've done .
Laid out the fleece and trimmed it .
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I cut 1/2" pvc pipe to length (about 72") and sliced numerous grooves in the areas where it needed to make tight bends. I then attached the top edge of the fleece with a little trim adhesive. The pipe bends easily and holds itself tight to the unibody at the door jams. A couple of clamps ensure it's not going anywhere.
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It kept drooping in the center, so I pulled the pvc up tight to the fiberglass with small screw. I used an old gas tank strap to get it tight around the wheel wells and an old wooden trim molding keeps the fleece tight to the wall under the reinforcement. I need the area on top of the wheel wells accessible in order to mount the roll bar.
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After it dries, we'll see how easy it is to get out.
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Very nice work, Wes!!!! Always a challenge to work with all the angles and radius's, looks like you nailed a good plan!!!
Like the innovative approach! Fleece is an amazing tool, but can be challenging to anchor, for sure. Great job!
Wow, would never have thought to embed resin on fleece. Very clever. Easier to manipulate than thick woven fiberglass sheets. Plus when your done, it's already upholstered! :)
Well... the fleece and resin didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. I misjudged the amount of hardener to use based on the temperature outside. The resin started to harden before it saturated the fleece.
The result was a very bumpy and floppy panel. I wasn't thrilled with having to cover the whole thing with glass matte to make it rigid, and then filling and sanding to smooth it all out.
Instead, I replaced the center section with hardboard. It's already rigid and requires no sanding to get a smooth surface. I did glass the ends...
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then filled and smoothed.
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A little trimming and some more filler...
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and the panel fits snugly around the roll bar mounting points.
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A little more sanding and it will be smooth enough to cover.
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Interior is shaping up.:)
Your going to be able to make boats when your done, after all this glasswork! :)
It looks great! I know how much work something like that can be getting the desired shape, strength and smoothness. Good work!
Spent the holiday weekend working in in our son and daughter-in-laws backyard. Poured a footing for a decorative wall, stacked cinder block and dug lots of holes for plants. All the while we were being watched by the crazy next door neighbor who thinks we're hiding "direct energy weapons" in the yard. :whacked:**):whacked: From time to time she would stand on a ladder and stare directly over the fence recording us on her cell phone. Paranoia runs deep.
I did manage to do a little work on the VR. Some paint for the rear panel and some sheet metal for an air intake box.
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All in all, a good weekend... but Tuesday's activity tops it all...
There are nuts everywhere I guess! Nice look with the paint on it!
I was finally able to wrap my Rotas in new rubber.
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The enhancement is dramatic.
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Still needs adjustments to the ride height and spacers to push the wheels to the edge of the fenders, but I'm STOKED!!!
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Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The VR left the garage today under it's own power since... well, ever!
I spent the last couple of weeks working out the ride height and desired spacing of the wheels within the tire wells. The front wheels got 1" spacers which lets me use the Rota center caps, avoiding the ugly dust caps protruding through the center holes. The rears needed 2" spacers to allow the tires to fill out the wells.
I really like the stance.
Unfortunately, pushing the wheels out created a couple of clearance issues with the body, when turning. Easy fix. A little trimming to the corners of the tilt bonnet and to the edge of the inner blockoffs I made for the fenders, and everything is in the clear.
I'm still waiting to install pipes and mufflers, but I just couldn't wait to see if she'd actually drive. So, with more than a little apprehension :o, I fired her up and backed her down the driveway into the street. I took a couple of laps around the court and to the corner and back. And although the total distance travelled was probably less than 1K feet, it was exhilarating.
There were no loud bangs, no rubbing noises, no strange vibrations and none of those tell tale smells indicating a major problem. Once back in the garage, I did find two small leaks. Fuel, from a fitting not completely tight and oil, from the pan-to-timing cover seal.
I was feeling so good, that I took a few pics to commemorate her first day in the sun. And with the bright light, I was even able to approximate a metallic paint finish.
All in all... one great 'feel good' day.
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Well done Wes! Like the mock ups too.
Always a day to remember forever! Like when you fire the engine for the first time.. Congrats on the maiden voyage. Can't wait to see what the final color choice is.
Wow! Congratulations! I think everyone who's ever built a car knows at least a bit of your feelings today. A day to remember, for sure!!
Excellant ! nice build, I bet that ride you took stoked the fire a bit more....
My roadster version isn't quite worth $35 million... :eek:
Stirling Moss' 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO becomes world's most expensive car | Digital Trends
but, it's priceless to me! :D:D:D
Trying a power window conversion.
In the Z forums, the 1993-94 Toyota Camry regulators seem to be the consensus choice. But very little posted regarding successful installs. A couple of videos of them operating are my only references.
Any suggestions on how to start this process?:o
Picked these up today at PickNPull for under $80.
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Bench tested... both operate perfectly and are very quiet.
This is a realy NICE build Keep up the pictures and naration
Wes here are some generic instructions and on classic z cars there is a thread about this with photos.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/Digita...741-306_IS.pdf
MSA power window kit
Wes also found this kit for the zcar doors but costs more
Motorsport! Power Window Conversion Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Thanks Steve.
The Motorsport and Spax conversion kits reuse the Z's scissor regulators. My existing regulators flex and bind too much. New regs. plus the conversion kits are too expensive. The Camry parts would seem to simplify the operation, if I can get every thing to line up. That PDF file looks pretty helpful.
Well it won't win any beauty contests, but the driver side window is operational. A lot of trial and error getting the Camry actuator track aligned with the two Datsun window guides, but it looks like it'll work.
A little manipulating gets the curves close.
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A couple bolts to attach window frame to regulator and regulator to door.
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Frankenstein mounting for motor
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...and walla!!!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
Started and completed the passenger side window today.
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Operates even smoother than the driver side.:D:D:D:D:D:D
More minor progress.
Found these generic power window switches here 5PDT Momentary Automotive Window Switch 060-782
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They were cheap, easy to wire and fit nicely in the center console.
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Gathered together all the seat belt pieces for reinstallation. Problem!! The unibody reinforcement interferes with the original mounting locations on the door side. Not confident that I can make modifications to the original units, so I guess I'll be looking for after market solutions.
Switches look great Wes.
Nice install on the switches, they look just like the ones that Dakota Digital sells with their power window kits.
?Big Boy Toy? - - however, as most have said, it's yours and that's what counts - - please keep us in the loop on this build - - - you have a real nice "Ride" there so enjoy it and thanks for sharing the pics.
(and all this time I thought, Shine, sold membership subscriptions for NSRA:LOL::p:))