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Thread: Newbie to restoration....
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    51 Chevy is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 51 Chevy Fleetline 4 door
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    Newbie to restoration....

     



    Hey all. I just recently picked up a 1951 Chevy fleetline 4 door. It is a manual with a 216 motor. It is is very good condition. Needs interior and has some rust spots. Nothing too cancerous. My plan is too Put a 350/350 turbo trans in it, Mustang II front slip to support the airbag suspension . The body and interior will remain pretty stock. I just dont really know where to start?? Should I have the Eng/trans and suspension work done before body work? Should I pull the motor and interior and start "cleaning" up the rest (paint engine bay and stuff)? I want to start but seem overwhelmed with ideas and need a starting point!
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    I will post pics once my project starts

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If your new to restorations, I'd keep it simple. Put in a 235 I6 ( bolt in ) warmed over with intake/ headders, keep the 3spd, find a '49-'52 Powerglide rear end, they have 3.55's instead of 4.10's, makes a little better cruiser. I'd suggest against a MII clip if you have never done a clip b4, welding it in could be a problem to begin with ( bad welds/ inadaquate welder ) or welding crookid. I'v got a '51 Fleetline 4dr myself, mine has the rarer 235/ Powerglide auto, keeping it 85% or so original. have arleady bought non original interior ( tho a 1950's style, it's grape Purple and White Vinyl, pleated, has a white top cap and white piping ) but the engine/ trans will stay the same, have put on a outside sunvisor, I have had paint mixed to match the interior grape purple color, the interior/ exterior will be colormatched. will have wide whites on stock steelies, with baby moon caps.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Definatly do the 350/350 combo, but as Matt said good welding is critical. Unless you are a competent welder, farm that part out. Basic steps are.....

    Remove the front clip, weld in the new suspension, mock-up the motor/trans/rearend (a 55-57 CHevy rear end is a bolt in and common factory gears for this style rear (55-64) are 3.08, 3.31, 3.55 3.73 and 4.11, choose the one that suits your engine combo/driving plans). Blow it apart again and do the body/paint work.

    Plan on it being a lot more time and money consuming than you expect.
    Last edited by Mike P; 10-05-2006 at 07:02 PM.

  4. #4
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I like Mikes outline. I switched to a 235 in my first car....a '53 2-door, and it was hard to keep up with traffic. I have not heard of one person happy with the 6 cylinder powertrain, and the value of the car will be much less with the six.

  5. #5
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    welding is a must for doing mods and some metal fabrication is the second. But if you are up to the challenge go to shows and do some reserch on the way other cars have been done and start idea's from there .

  6. #6
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have a terrific project to start with.

    Before you pick up any tools, you have got to do some really deep soul searching and decide what you want, what you can afford, and what you are capable of doing yourself. This, believe it or not, is the toughest part of the process, because most people tend to be overly optimistic and enthusiastic in their evaluation of themselves. That can be good, but it can also lead to the person getting frustrated and giving up in the middle.

    The "want" part is sort of easy to figure out. Simply get a basic idea in your mind of what the finished car will be like. You have already sort of done that with the 350/350, MMII comments. Good sensible start.

    The "what can I afford" part is also not too hard to figure out. None of us can really afford to do this stuff, but we do it anyway. But as everyone will tell you, double or triple what you figure it will cost, and you will get close (maybe). It will also take a lot more time than you think. Lots more time.

    Here comes the really hard part. What are you capable of doing yourself. This answer takes into account no only your personal skills, but what equipment you own or will buy. You will need cutting, welding, lifting, etc equipment as a very minimum. You simply don't clip and airbag a car without a lot of skill and equipment. Can't be done. You will also need a good amount of space to work, because the parts you spread out from the disassembled car will take up more room than you ever imagined.

    None of what I have said above is meant to discourage you from this project, just the opposite. I think this is a very good way to go. But, sometimes for a persons first build it makes more sense to take baby steps. Maybe just cleaning the car up a little, fixing the mechanical parts and getting it drivable so you can start to get the feel of hot rodding and participating in cruises and shows. Then, as time goes on start making changes as finances and your skills improve. I don't know you, so you may be very capable of doing the jobs you need to do, but I am just throwing this out there in case you have not done these things before.

    I think if you do it the simple way to start with you will stand a better chance of success. JMO..

    Don

  7. #7
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
    I like Mikes outline. I switched to a 235 in my first car....a '53 2-door, and it was hard to keep up with traffic. I have not heard of one person happy with the 6 cylinder powertrain, and the value of the car will be much less with the six.
    The Powerglides are sluggish, the 3 speed manuals are a lot better, added with the 3.55 rear end from a Powerglide car, they can be nice cruisers, a floor shifter could easilly be fitted, if 1 dosn't like a colum shift. '49-'52's run around 20k-30k 6cyl or V8 swap, if there done nice, they'll sell for that ither way.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

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