Thread: straight axle for 57 chevy

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Aloha everyone,
Does anyone out there know where I can purchase a conversion kit that would allow me to run a straight front axle on my 57 chevy 2 door post? Note that I would like to be able to run disc brakes on the front end as well!

If it matters the motor is a Dart Big "M" BBC and the trans is a G-force 5 speed. I also need info on fenderwell headers for this combo. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys, Stanton

They don't make kits for what you want to do. It was a dumb idea when it was popular in the seventies and the cars that didn't get junked got converted back to ifs.

the only one I ever drove had an early chevy van axle under it , big block 4spd car, THE MOST EVIL HANDLING P.O.S. I've ever driven.

Totally agree with Al and Bob, unless you want to build a nostalgia trailer queen to take to the car shows and show everybody what we did for drag cars in the 60's and 70's, this is not a real good idea. These conversions not only were poor handeling, but bordered on dangerous. I personally would not drive one further than on and off the trailer.

OK I'm new here. I'm gonna P**s some of you off, here goes.
Why are you discouraging the man from using a straight axle on his car? He wants something different than a cookie cutter, lowered, BBC, can't drive it anywere, dust collector. If done CORRECTLY a straight axle handles on the STREET as well as anything as long as you remember it ain't a Corvette, (or even an early Camaro for that matter). I just bought a '55 w/a straight axle just because it's different. I've got pics if anyone want to see 'em. Maybe some of you guys should stop collecting dust yourself and have a little fun in a DIFFERENT car that drives. And look at ALL the early Fords and Chevies out there with straight axles, you gonna tell them to change? I'm sure I ruffled a few feathers. Makes for and interesting day, huh........

Just a thought..... before you throw stones at us old relics "collecting dust" you might want to click on the camera icon by some of our names to see what we have built/are building. Ruffeled feathers ...naw... we all know anybody can buy a car.

Ouch, that hurt. Please feel free to jog on over to my pictures and tell me if I don't have any work to do on my "bought" car.

http://community.webshots.com/user/56gary69

Let me know what you-all think.

Now that we have that out of the way, I wish you luck with your project.

If your really determined to go ahead with the straight axel, I do have some legitimate suggestions (other than don't do it). Some of this is pretty basic, but as I don't know you expertise level, I may be covering things you already know or are planning on.

1. Get a book on frontend and suspension design (covering straight axels) and learn it foward and backward.

2. Condition of parts. Without knowing what the front end originally came from, it's still a pretty safe bet that the parts are at LEAST 50 years old. Take everything apart to include the spring packs, and inspect/replace everything. Check the welds on the frame mounts and redo ANY that are in question (also check to see that the frame has not cracked around any of the welds. Also check the measurements to make sure the springs have been placed parallel. While were talking about springs, make sure to get ones that are appropriate for the weight of the engine your using. I can't tell from the pictures how the steering box is connected or what the steering linkage looks like, but check this for alignemt, centering and that it does not bind.

3. Couldn't tell if your car was set up like this, but a trick from the 60's on these front ends was to run only the front hubs, deleting the front brakes, backing plates etc to save weight, along with either no front shocks or 90/10 drag shocks. BAD IDEA!!!!!!!!

4. When the straight axel conversions were actually being done for racing (you know back before I started collecting dust) the tendency was to raise the car all the way around, with the nose generally being quite a bit higher than the rear for increased traction. This was a big reason (along with some other) for the nasty handeling of these cars and in a LOT of cases rollovers. In the process of building the car keep an eye on keeping the center of gravity as low as possible.

5. Once you've gotten to the point where the front end has been rebuilt the the driveline is in place and the sheetmetal is place the real fun will begin. For the initial alignment specs, if you can figure out what the front end originally came from those specs may be a good place to START. For any kind of handeling, caster/camber and KPI (King Pin Inclination Angle) will be critical. The book you studied will have expained all about these and how they are adjusted. From that point it will be trial and error to get it as good as you can get it.

6. Take your own advice and know it's driving limitations, at best you will have someting that drives like a 50 year old chevy truck.

One final thought from someone who lived through those days, this was an idea that was around only for a very short period of time, there is a reason you don't see them any more.

Gee, and I thought all that stuff I had to wash off my Track T this weekend was because it's fenderless! Good to know it was only dust!!!

Glad you posted the pictures, it helps to know what your experience level with driving one of these things actually is. As Mike correctly points out, there's a reason this fad came and went so fast. Based on what I can see with the cross over of the drag link and tie rod you're going to have some fun moments on uneven pavement. But then, what do I know. At least you got a good, stout Mopar rear in it.

I agree, good luck - but man what are you thinking!

I am of the opinion that part of hot rodding is making a car faster, better looking and better handling than the original. That is why people like myself invested money and time in mods such as disc brakes all round, and power steering. My experience has proved to me that a sraight axle aint no good in the driveability stakes, so advise you "steer clear". But then again, individualism is what rodding is all about!

Go for it mate.

Kia kaha,
The Dude.

Specialty Cars in CA sells all new components for a straight axle swap, everything you need in one stop. . I personally love the gasser style cars. We are currently planning a straight axle swap to a frame off restored 67 Chevelle, triple black, 327, M-22, 4:10 12 bolt car. Add some old school cheater slicks and some fenderwell headers and we're off and running. Anyone can restore a car but only some can cut em up.

i would never want to see a chevelle modified and downgraded to straight front, thats crazy IMHO

my stepdad has a 57 thats been i guess converted? to straight front, has leaf packs and knuckles type spindles and rear steering, was a drag car tubbed and engine under dahs and everything but body is nice, he needs and wants to go to IFS but we dotn know how or what to get to do this, i figure find a rear steer A or B or G body 60s or 70s car and put that on it ?

the solid beam leaf suspension under it looks to be fabbed because the leaf hangers and everything are welded to the frame rails, and so are body mounting brackets, i figured originally they would be riveted or bolted ?? no ?


what can he do or shoudl he do ?

i know of a 71 cutlass supreme for cheap that we coudl take IFS from and put under the 57, could this work somehow ?

and did '57 come with IFS originally ??? normal control arms ? rear steer ?

thanks

Originally posted by fst68
i would never want to see a chevelle modified and downgraded to straight front, thats crazy IMHO

Most of us would feel the same about clipping the '57!

They had a pretty good independent front under them to start with, and there are parts galore to upgrade the stock stuff since the tri 5 Chevies have been so popular for so long. Find a clapped out 4 door with a good chassis under it and swap out the junk that's under it now. Sell off the body and interior parts from the 4 door and you might even come out at break even on cost depending on what you start with. And even if it ends up costing you more than the Cutlass you won't have devalued the car more than what you "saved".

Where are you located? I will trade you a stock 57 frame for that "junked" straight axle set-up in a heartbeat!!!!!

PEace,

my 57 is 110% original with fre on air conditioning ( original ) i must say its more uniqe NOW to have an ORGINAL 57. but if you are looking try a motor shop to get you the axle your looking for or make. and your brakes you can take that to a brake shop they do 57 brakes. originaly. i asked.

later