Now that we have that out of the way, I wish you luck with your project.

If your really determined to go ahead with the straight axel, I do have some legitimate suggestions (other than don't do it). Some of this is pretty basic, but as I don't know you expertise level, I may be covering things you already know or are planning on.

1. Get a book on frontend and suspension design (covering straight axels) and learn it foward and backward.

2. Condition of parts. Without knowing what the front end originally came from, it's still a pretty safe bet that the parts are at LEAST 50 years old. Take everything apart to include the spring packs, and inspect/replace everything. Check the welds on the frame mounts and redo ANY that are in question (also check to see that the frame has not cracked around any of the welds. Also check the measurements to make sure the springs have been placed parallel. While were talking about springs, make sure to get ones that are appropriate for the weight of the engine your using. I can't tell from the pictures how the steering box is connected or what the steering linkage looks like, but check this for alignemt, centering and that it does not bind.

3. Couldn't tell if your car was set up like this, but a trick from the 60's on these front ends was to run only the front hubs, deleting the front brakes, backing plates etc to save weight, along with either no front shocks or 90/10 drag shocks. BAD IDEA!!!!!!!!

4. When the straight axel conversions were actually being done for racing (you know back before I started collecting dust) the tendency was to raise the car all the way around, with the nose generally being quite a bit higher than the rear for increased traction. This was a big reason (along with some other) for the nasty handeling of these cars and in a LOT of cases rollovers. In the process of building the car keep an eye on keeping the center of gravity as low as possible.

5. Once you've gotten to the point where the front end has been rebuilt the the driveline is in place and the sheetmetal is place the real fun will begin. For the initial alignment specs, if you can figure out what the front end originally came from those specs may be a good place to START. For any kind of handeling, caster/camber and KPI (King Pin Inclination Angle) will be critical. The book you studied will have expained all about these and how they are adjusted. From that point it will be trial and error to get it as good as you can get it.

6. Take your own advice and know it's driving limitations, at best you will have someting that drives like a 50 year old chevy truck.

One final thought from someone who lived through those days, this was an idea that was around only for a very short period of time, there is a reason you don't see them any more.