Thread: best way to get 340

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It's not a question of power, it's just time. A very slight looseness of bearings that would never hurt a cast crank will shatter a steel one. In the case of the 318 truck engine, the oil pressure dropped, and before I could react, the crank broke in two places and wiped out everything but the exhaust manifolds! (It was flat out at the time.) Block, heads, even the 340 hirise intake, all smashed to hell and gone.

Hard to beat the cubes...Getting a .030 over 360 to a 426 is impressive!
No replacement for cubic displacement they always say

At any rate 2500 bucks is not a bad deal...Then you need some oval port aluminum W2 racing heads a Air Gap intake, Demon carb...It gets expensive quick....

But for about $10,000 you will definately have a motor that will run with anything out there....600 hp without nitrous easy...In a lightweight small block that is amazing....Bang for the buck it is hard to beat...

...Mind you it is tough to get a car that can handle that kind of power down the track or street without mini tubs, tying in the frame rails and a roll cage...

putting too much motor in a Car means mini tubs and a roll cage at the local track...Once you go faster than 11.5....And with a small block Stroker kit you can top that in your sleep.

First thing you do with any mopar engine is: get a sonic test done. Mopar are known for end of a production run to cut back on metal ( thin wall casting). Sonic test will show you wall thickness. Between the water jacket & piston wall. When making the block at the factory if there is a core shift. The clearance will be less. In other words: you are limited to what you can overbore the block. In '72 late & in '73 Mopar put out alot of thin wall casting blocks!!! This info is not limited to Mopar only. Chevy put out some bad 427/454 blocks.