The best "secret" for getting that sheet metal on the pavement is to either move the suspension up, or the body down. Air bags are the current thing, hydraulics were the deal back a few. I think a number of the air bag systems today are better engineered than some of the older hydraulic systems, but as Don says, at full drop, they're all show and no go.

I like to get mine low, but still be driveable (with some cautionary moves). The wagon I just sold was dropped 3" front and rear, and with 60 series tires, sat pretty nice. That was done with 2" dropped spindles, and 1" shorter coils in front and 3" blocks in back. The Dodge pickup was dropped 4" in front, 6" in the rear, called a Ram Slam! The front came down via dropped spindles, shorter coils, and flipped lower ball joints. Took some clearancing of the lower control arms because of wheel width. Biggest problem in front at this drop is the fender liners, had to drop down a size in tire to save some diameter. The rear was done by flipping the axle onto the top of the springs, C-notching the frame, and changing shocks for length. To regain some load carrying ability I put air bags over the axle that can be inflated when needed (like Craig, gotta haul an engine once in a while). The '36 is done with dropped spindles, shorter coils, and blocks in the rear with slightly de-arched springs.

About 12 years ago I had a '39 Chev coupe that we built to be "cartoon low". The little chin under the grille cleared the road by 1 5/8 inches. We installed a Pinto/Mustang II front crossmember up into the frame rails about 3 extra inches and shortened the coils. It maintained geometry that way, and got the nose way down, along with tire sizing. Had to be real careful driving that one. Our motto was "every worm for himself". The poor guy who bought the car loved the look but when he got home the day he bought it he couldn't get into his driveway. The next time I saw it after that he'd raised it a couple inches.......just didn't look right!

Praise the lowered!!