Thread: 40 Studebaker street rod build started

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If you're going to run headers, I would bolt them on the motor before you make the motor mounts or finish up the crossmember in the frame or mock-up the oil filter. Matter of fact, I would bolt up the entire exhaust system before I finished up the crossmember. It won't hurt a thing if you have to move the motor to one side or another by a few inches. Some of the 60's Mopars had the motor moved 3" toward the passenger side of the engine bay and I doubt that you will find any OEM car or truck with the engine exactly in the middle of the chassis. (Picture a hemi valve cover bangin' on a big ol' power brake booster and you'll begin to see the problem). If you do this, move the motor and the transmission an equal amount to one side or another. Do not point the trans tailshaft toward the middle of the car or you will disrupt the + and - of the bearings in the u-joints. In other words, keep the crankshaft centerline parallel to the centerline of the car, like railroad tracks.

Another thought, never sacrifice a main component or system because something is in the way. Main frame rails can be re-routed and re-welded and sheet metal can be modified or eliminated altogether. Nothing is sacred when you are building a rod. Make room and make it work.
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Some frame pics. Removed the big X, modified and boxed the 40 stude chassis.