Remote battery cables: buy kit or build from scratch?

Those Type 2 Auto Resetting UCB Circuit Breakers from CE auto electric supply are something I'll try. My fuse box is set up with a 30A fused circuit for the AC system, but vintage air wants you to hook up the 30A breaker that they supply, either to the starter or some other source that can serve big amps. Replacing the 30Amp fuse in the fuse box should do the trick. I did provide a source for big power users, at the top of the foot well. I terminated the 1/0 cable from the battery and with a 3/8" lug and ran a 3/8" brass bolt through the body, there. On the engine compartment side, a 1 foot long cable goes from there to the starter. Right now, I attach an 8 gage wire from there to the GM supplied fuse box that runs my ECU, TCU, fuel pump and electric fan.

IIRC, my Haywire system also wants you to hook up the lighting system, separate from the fuse box. They supply a fusible link that's supposed to go to a similar source of power. No wonder the fuse box only uses a 10 gage wire for it's main supply (also with a fusible link). Not sure I like that. I expected virtually everything to have a feed wire from the fuse box.

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Originally Posted by daveS53

My fuse box is set up with a 30A fused circuit for the AC system, but vintage air wants you to hook up the 30A breaker that they supply, either to the starter or some other source that can serve big amps. Replacing the 30Amp fuse in the fuse box should do the trick. I did provide a source for big power users, at the top of the foot well. I terminated the 1/0 cable from the battery and with a 3/8" lug and ran a 3/8" brass bolt through the body, there. On the engine compartment side, a 1 foot long cable goes from there to the starter. Right now, I attach an 8 gage wire from there to the GM supplied fuse box that runs my ECU, TCU, fuel pump and electric fan.

IIRC, my Haywire system also wants you to hook up the lighting system, separate from the fuse box. They supply a fusible link that's supposed to go to a similar source of power. No wonder the fuse box only uses a 10 gage wire for it's main supply (also with a fusible link). Not sure I like that. I expected virtually everything to have a feed wire from the fuse box.

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I ran my Vintage Air hot to a 3/8" Terminal Stud (4 Gauge) that was sourced from one of those CE Auto Distribution Blocks (rated at 250 Amps-from CE Auto), as it doesn't need any more fusing.

I also ran 2/0 from my 165 Amp Alternator (hope it's big enough-we'll see!) back to the Battery, along with a 2/0 from the Alternator Case to the Frame, and, a 4 Gauge Wire from each Head to ground (for the Ignition System)-

I have a whole bunch of redundant Grounds, including a 1/0 from the Battery ground to the Rear Frame, the front Frame, to the Engine, and to the Body-

I will not run a fusible link in my Car (due to the possibility of Fire), but run many resettable circuit breakers and Maxi fuses-

I way overdid my Wire sizes throughout, and I am using these as my Relays (size dependent on Load):

Dual 70 Amp Relay Board

Pro 4 Relay Module

I have those CE Auto Distribution Blocks all over my Car, and I really like how the work (and look)-

My EFI was a whole 'nuther kettle of Fish, so I won't go there-

Hope your Wiring project goes well! Electrical was my weakest point, now I feel that I can tackle most situations (and chew bubble gum at the same time!) :whacked:-