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I've been looking at battery cable kits and bulk cable/terminals that are available. The cable kits are high, but all the little stuff ads up too. What is the best way to go here? Also, should I use a full length ground cable, or should I use a short cable to frame, then another to engine block? Another question I have is what gauge cable is best to use? The positive cable will be approximately 8 feet in length. Any suggestions?
I ran a 1 AWG welding cable from battery to starter for the positive, then a short piece of 4 AWG from the starter to a bulkhead connector feeding the fuse block. For the ground side I ran a short piece of 1 AWG from battery to a body bolt that screws into a welded nut inside the frame, then another short piece from the frame to a starter bolt up front. Connectors were off the shelf at NAPA, and they crimped them on for me with pieces of heavy heat shrink in place for me to heat & shrink at home. I haven't had a problem with it to date.
With an EFI engine, grounding can be more critical, so I chose to run both positive and negative all the way from the battery in the trunk, to the engine and another short cable from the battery to the frame, right by the battery. I've also tinned the spot where the ground attaches to the frame. I bought bulk cable and all the lugs needed for less than any kit that I found. I did a google search for the cable. I think this is where I bought from, but not sure. They were out of the 1 gage, so I got the 1/0, since it wasn't much more, but it sure was overkill.
Welding Cable | Battery Cable | Waytek, Inc - Page 1 of 9
Did you both use the large post terminals on the battery end? If so, were they also crimped on?
Yes to both, for me. And I'm running EFI too, but saw no problem with using the chassis for the ground path. Running a cable direct is more conservative, and nothing wrong with that approach other than the cost.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce4dad
i run to the frame. i know there is a lot of controversy on this but look at any new car. our 300 is loaded with electronics and power.
I ran welding cable (much more flexible & more strands) you can make your own copper terminal ends by buying a short piece of copper tubing with the same id as the strands of battery cable, cut them about 1 1/4" long with a tubing cutter, crush the last 3/4" with a vise and punch a hole with a whitney punch in the crushed end, slide on some heat shrink and solder the end on the cable and heat shrink it. As far as ground blocks go to Oreilly and look up Cole Hersee terminal block Part # M449 it runs less than $16, if you buy it from Watsons or another street rod electrical supplier you'll pay over twice that much or search ebay for marine terminal blocks. I install one under the dash, at the rear and the front and connect them together with a heavy gauge wire suitable to your load, then terminate it to where your battery ground is on your starter (or terminal on your frame where the grond from battery lands). This allows you to connect a ground at any of those locations and avoid the frame if wanted. Its worked on boats forever..... I ground every accessory to one of these terminal blocks and not the frame and have never had a ground issue, not that the frame is always bad but this does away with any questionable grounds, according to Painless the frame is merely a good ground by mass alone as steel is not that great of a conductor especially when rusted, wonder why Generous Motors and other manufacturers don't do this? After you pay for all the copper most will figure it out ($) Best of Luck Matthhyj
I like your idea fo do - it - yourself copper terminals. Those larger terminals are big buck for the top end stuff, and your method produces a part equally effective for pennies.
It's easier to solder if you drill an 1/8 hole on the taper, use paste flux on the wire, and solid core solder fed through the hole. I've made them this way since the 70's.
Thanks for all the replies. I think I will look for the 1 gauge welding cable locally. The large post terminals may be hard to find locally. I will see what I can find at AutoZone and O'Reilly's tomorrow. I appreciate all the info and suggestions and welcome all advice. Thanks again.
Check your local metal scrap yard. They'll sell you wire priced by the pound and you'll save big bucks over new. No guarantee they'll have exactly what you need, but it might be worth a look.
There are places where saving a few bucks by using salvage is OK, but insulated cable for battery connections is not one I'd feel comfortable with. Like Matthyj says, welding cable has lots of little strands of copper and is very flexible, making it much, much easier to work with. It also has insulation that's generally rated for 600 volts, and is thermoset as opposed to thermoplastic, more resistant to abrasion. I'd recommend that you do it with new, top quality cable and know that it's right.Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
Recently, I finished the Wiring on my Car, and I was in an conundrum on this issue also-luckily, I bought this Book before I started and learned a bunch (actually, I bought one & two of three):
CE Auto Electric Supply - Wiring Books
Anyway, the Author started his own Auto Electric Supply (he is extremely knowledgeable in Auto Electrics), and the Products are top of the line:
CE Auto Electric Supply - Individual Components
As the Author used to work for Rockford Fosgate, he offers (and uses) a lot of components from the Audio world, and they work extremely well in Hot Rods-for instance, just look at the Power Distribution Blocks:
CE Auto Electric Supply - Power Distribution Products
Or, The Battery Terminals:
CE Auto Electric Supply - Aftermarket Battery Terminals and Adapters
Or, the Circuit Breakers:
CE Auto Electric Supply - Circuit Breakers
The Battery Cables are tinned (Coast Guard approved), and offer 4700 strands in a 1/0:
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/batterycable.html
I am using these for my Battery Cables:
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/...kerkit_med.JPG
Top quality stuff, and I've used it all over my Car (and would highly recommend them)-heck, if you have a problem, just email Tony-he's really a nice guy, owns a blown Olds, and is willing to help-
Here is a Wire chart that tells you how big of Cable to use (by feet and Load):
http://www.distinctbeat.com/gaugeguide.jpg
A good chart, and to clarify it's always OK to go bigger with the conductor size, but smaller will increase amperage (flow) and generate heat leading to potential failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35WINDOW
Those Type 2 Auto Resetting UCB Circuit Breakers from CE auto electric supply are something I'll try. My fuse box is set up with a 30A fused circuit for the AC system, but vintage air wants you to hook up the 30A breaker that they supply, either to the starter or some other source that can serve big amps. Replacing the 30Amp fuse in the fuse box should do the trick. I did provide a source for big power users, at the top of the foot well. I terminated the 1/0 cable from the battery and with a 3/8" lug and ran a 3/8" brass bolt through the body, there. On the engine compartment side, a 1 foot long cable goes from there to the starter. Right now, I attach an 8 gage wire from there to the GM supplied fuse box that runs my ECU, TCU, fuel pump and electric fan.
IIRC, my Haywire system also wants you to hook up the lighting system, separate from the fuse box. They supply a fusible link that's supposed to go to a similar source of power. No wonder the fuse box only uses a 10 gage wire for it's main supply (also with a fusible link). Not sure I like that. I expected virtually everything to have a feed wire from the fuse box.
I ran my Vintage Air hot to a 3/8" Terminal Stud (4 Gauge) that was sourced from one of those CE Auto Distribution Blocks (rated at 250 Amps-from CE Auto), as it doesn't need any more fusing.Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
I also ran 2/0 from my 165 Amp Alternator (hope it's big enough-we'll see!) back to the Battery, along with a 2/0 from the Alternator Case to the Frame, and, a 4 Gauge Wire from each Head to ground (for the Ignition System)-
I have a whole bunch of redundant Grounds, including a 1/0 from the Battery ground to the Rear Frame, the front Frame, to the Engine, and to the Body-
I will not run a fusible link in my Car (due to the possibility of Fire), but run many resettable circuit breakers and Maxi fuses-
I way overdid my Wire sizes throughout, and I am using these as my Relays (size dependent on Load):
Dual 70 Amp Relay Board
Pro 4 Relay Module
I have those CE Auto Distribution Blocks all over my Car, and I really like how the work (and look)-
My EFI was a whole 'nuther kettle of Fish, so I won't go there-
Hope your Wiring project goes well! Electrical was my weakest point, now I feel that I can tackle most situations (and chew bubble gum at the same time!) :whacked:-