Thread: 40 ford gets a new mill!
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02-16-2013 07:14 AM #1
Perhaps you already know this, but the "trick" to getting the front sheet metal to line up well on a '39/40 is to hang the hood first and then bring the other pieces up to proper alignment around it.
It seems the way of all improvement projects, in order to do the original idea, you end up having to do a handful of other niggling things. My bride calls it "...the project, before the project, before the project....". In the end, if done well, it improves the whole experience, even with the occasional exasperation.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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02-16-2013 07:40 AM #2
Bob is right, the '40 is very difficult to get right as the sheetmetal is kinda daisy-chained out from the cowl. The big problem with that is every time somebody stuffs a different engine in it they whack out more of the inner fender sheetmetal and that screws the core support location. By doing what Bob suggests the hood will locate the core support and you then work back to the cowl.
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02-19-2013 06:32 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Thanks for the tip and info. My 40 is missing the v shaped cross bar, and the front end sheet metal was fitted very poor. I'm going to do my best to get it right. I hate to steer this thread off, but do you have any thoughts on why you see a lot of 39/40 sedan LH doors sticking out at the bottom?Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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I'm happy to see it back up, sure hope it lasts.
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