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Thread: Door latches: original versus "bear-claw"
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    earlymopar is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Door latches: original versus "bear-claw"

     



    I'm getting to the point on my project where I'll be repairing my doors (small, lower patch panels) and re-fitting the doors to the openings. With that in mind, I began to look over my existing latches and strikers to verify their condition. Those pieces look fine or are at least able to be used after some re-furbishing. Typical of many 30's era cars and trucks, I also see several other "door allignment aids" in each door opening and on each door such as; metal wedges, rubber wedges and blocks and, a spring-loaded wedge at the top of the door.
    My question is (even though I have seen many use the stock pieces, what are the advantages of the bear-claw style latches (other than an obvious safety gain)? Does their use allow you to eliminate the various stock alignment pieces (wedges, blocks, etc)?
    I also notice that there are mini-bear-claws and larger sizes. What is the rule of thumb for latch size? (I have a mid-thirties pickup).

    Thanks much fellas.

  2. #2
    brickman's Avatar
    brickman is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Cool Bear claw's for me......

     



    The reason being is I liked the way they worked with the shaved handle solenoids I'm using. They are also easy to use with the solenoid and a oldsmobile pull handle I put on the inside because the regular size bear claws I have used on my '48 chevy have two cable hook-ups on them. Last but not least, they are ALOT safer than the stock ones I had, they where more like a home door latches than an automotive one and I just didn't trust them. You can get them where they will work with stock outside handles also, a very good hotrod part IMHO.

  3. #3
    The Al Show's Avatar
    The Al Show is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You should keep the wedges even if you change latches. They keep the door in alignment and prevent shakeing and rattling. Removing them will also cause stress cracks around the hinges and the doors will droop when opened.
    " Im gone'

  4. #4
    earlymopar is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the input guys. I am curious how the manufcaturers or distributors of these latches direct you for chosing the correct latch size. In other words, is there a certain rule that tells you whether you need a medium latch versus a mini-latch?

    Also, I see a few manufacturers of these. Do you have any recommentations?

    Lastly, what do you see as a common installation time for a bear claw installed as a replacement for the stock latch? I would still be using the outside handle. As I understand it, there is some welding involved.

    Thanks much.

  5. #5
    JhnBrackett is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm getting mine for $49 shipped from eBay. I can get you the persons email address if you need but they should be posting more online.

  6. #6
    earlymopar is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    An address would be great. I did a search for "bear claw" and came up empty.

    What size and brand does he have?

    Thanks much.

  7. #7
    brickman's Avatar
    brickman is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I got a pair of "Bear Claw" latches, the large size, for $39.00 from southern Rods & Parts. I also got a pair a polished stainless striker bolts for $30.00 that really look sharp. They sell three or four different sizes and the salesman was the one that recommended the ones that I got for the large doors on my '48.

    Southernrods.com

    800-787-8763

    I didn't use the installation kit that requires welding. I just drilled a couple of new holes and bolted them into the spot where my stock latches where. It seems to work great so far, I haven't finished it yet.

  8. #8
    JhnBrackett is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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