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Thread: I bought the Black one not the Grey one!
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    A mechanical speedometer would be very reasonably price, Autometer and Stewart Warner have some that would fit the era and them of the build. My GM parts guy at a dealership here in town has a book with a nice little chart in it for determining the right speedo gear, takes in the tire diameter, rear gear, and final drive ratio of the tranny. What kind of trans is in the car, anyway? The electronic speedometers are neat, simple to calibrate, but quite a bit more spendy.....
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  2. #17
    IC2
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    If you need a speedo, again, the mechanicals are almost foolproof, but they can be a PITA to get real accurate. Then there is the 'potential' problem of routing that cable. The electronics use a Hall effect transducer with 2 or 3 wires and are simple to install. The Auto Meter's are very easy to calibrate. My VDO has too many steps unless you know the pulse count. The electronics are dead on if calibrated right
    Dave W
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  3. #18
    Blow by's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 53 Willys Pickup 29 Ford Sedan
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    The tranny is a 700r4 which I know very little about and need to do some research as it has a very hard shift coming out of 1st.Have added a pic of the interior as I am presently using the original gas tank and so that only leaves room for that center guage cluster which will be tough to add extra guages.That was why I was thinking electronic as the cable may be hard to route.
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  4. #19
    IC2
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    That 700R4 - make sure the TV cable is adjusted correctly - that misadjustment seems to be the death of many of these transmissions

    If you are still using that cowl gas tank, before you purchase any gauges, check the depth between the dash and tank. Some Hot Rod style gauges use a bulky plug which adds significant depth - Auto Meter has posts for connections, but is still over 2.25". VDO is 2.9" but has a plug and wires that add another 1" or so. Others are probably similar. Consider going with another gas tank, maybe (myself, I don't care much for 10 gallons of hi-test near my lap on an 85 year old car)
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  5. #20
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Buying an existing car, if it's got good/appropriate basics, is a fun way to go. Incrementally evolve it into "your car" while enjoying it (hopefuiiy).

    A couple thoughts on the gauge issues you've offered. The stock speedo is cable driven and there's access for that. The original speedo could be a fine option for what you've got there. As for additional gauges there are several options. Model A part suppliers have a couple options that are based on ol' timey pieces. One is a two gauge panel that conforms to the bottom center of the dash, looks a bit more integral than the typical straight panel more suited for later model stuff. Also there's a panel that fits around the stock column and has a gauge on either side, again, conforming to the bottom of the A dash. Won't probably work with that hurky late model column, but then, if it were me, that's one of the first things I'd be changing (after any critical mechanical/safety necessities) because it's out of character with the rest of the car vibe. Another thing to be mindful of is how the column is hung. On stock Model A's years of vibration and fatigue can cause the fuel tank to crack at the column mount that's attached to the bottom of the tank. Again, can't tell how they mounted that later model column, but if they just rigged some kind of clamp to the stock piece it could be trouble eventually.



    Edit: Here's a pic of my stock style dash, still using the original fuel tank, with stock speedo, fuel gauge, oil press, and temp (also have an amp gauge down lower next to the panel with ignition), just to give you an idea. You could also do something like that unit I've got hanging under the center that conforms to the bottom of the tank shape. It's a fabricated piece rather than the commercially available ones.
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    Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 07-07-2011 at 06:18 AM.
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  6. #21
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    Thanks for the input guys,definitely gives me something to think about.That column definitely is out of place Bob and need to add that to the list.Can anyone head me in the direction of setting up the 700R4 correctly.Thanks Roger

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blow by View Post
    That column definitely is out of place Bob and need to add that to the list.
    Yes, but the tilt wheel is kinda nice to have. Changing the steering wheel would go a long ways towards making it look appropriate! ;-)

    CA does like to take more than their fair share in the title transfer game! On the bright side, it would have been even more if you had done it before July 1 when the "temporary" hike on fees expired. Of course, if the Gov gets his way, those hikes will be permanent.....argh! Sorry to go down that road.....back to you and your cool car!
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  8. #23
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    Holy Cow,
    $700+. When I transfered the title to my 34 in 66, Santa Clara, I think it was less than $10. Just another reason not to move back to Ca.

    Jack.
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