Thread: Knock on wood, 27 seems ok.

Tweet

Today I installed the final parts on my 27 and fired it up for the first time since it broke down in Daytona at Thanksgiving. I hope I don't jinx myself by saying it, but everything seems much better.

The ticking is MUCH less, it still rattles a little til it warms up, but I am going to contribute that to the stroker kit. Once warm it quiets down to almost nothing, and best of all, my oil pressure is right at 60-65 lbs. I also do not see any drips from the rear main seal, so maybe that is cured too with the new, better seal. I prelubed the engine before I started it and got great oil flow to all the rockers. I guess putting the screw in galley plugs was a good move.

The water pump is spinning a whole lot slower with the new RunneRite pulleys and even though my temp still got up to 220 on my dash gauge, the radiator cap that I bought with the thermometer in it only reads 170. I can hold my hand on both radiator hoses so I am more inclined to believe the radiator cap. I have my sender right at the thermostat housing, so maybe it is just the hottest part of the motor right there and not a true reading.

Finally, I took it for a little drive and it pulls strong and runs well. I would like to take it to Billetproof in April in Gainesville, so I want to put lots of miles on it before then to make sure everything is ok.

Here are some pictures from today, the new valve covers Don bought me are much better as far as clearing my firewall tunnel. I can actually get them off and on, something I couldn't do with the tall Edelbrocks I had on it.

Don

Are you using forged pistons?

Yep, Keith Black.


Don

Learn to love the rattle til it warms up then.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Learn to love the rattle til it warms up then.

I kinda guessed that was the case, Bob. Plus, these pistons are so darned short I think they rock in the bores during the stroke.

Paul, no one is happier than me to see it back together. Not only are parts not strewn all over the shop now but I can finally start in ernest working on the frame for the rpu. I have one front rail welded up and can now get moving on the second side.

Don

Sounds good Don, looking forward to a blast around the block

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Yep, Keith Black.


Don

there has been for some time two alloy in forged pistons the 2618 this some like better for hi out put blowers alot of NoS they can take more piston to wall . then theres 4032 alloy were you can run the piston closer to the wall as this is low growth alum were they do not move as much as the 2618 .so if the bores are big with 4032 there going to make noise .i fit the pistons for the alloy and the use. some pistons have skrits ground for better performance as to how much cam is ground in the piston not much is given about some noise till warm in some case there all out race pistons .speedpro/trw . wisco .ross .je. diamond. kb all use diffrent pro files on there skirts. cast pistons you can run very close to the wall so there not going to make any noise. hypers are a high silicon low growth as well not likeing alot of piston to wall or they can bang .so to say a storker will just make more noise is abit of a catch all .more like if forged pistons and abit loose it going to make noise. or the wrong piston to wall for use. some guys will max piston to wall size thinking there going to get beat on hard if sound was a eschew then hypers or fitting the pistons for the use would of help .i machine /build stroker i have not had anyone say any thing about piston noise then you get under say a CH of a 1.200 the piston may rock abit more have used many at 1.250 and 1.125 CH i do not know were you CH is i did not follow the build

Good to see the ole sled back together & running.

Hit the streets & rack up some miles.

Enjoy ... this time.

Paul

Good to see that the sleigh is now up & doing some miles.

It looks as though the start up rattle is something you'll have to live with - based on some commnets ...

O/T: I see you re-gifted the '46 to Jr. ... didn't want to roll with the s/axle & flattie??

Enjoy the day.

Paul

even longer ago than 20 years---why I remember----

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

even longer ago than 20 years---why I remember----

yep was waiting for the big boy to replay yep jerry may been longer i did hear of guys just building two ring pistons ?i never did any of this back then it was a good day if i had new set of speed pros or good used TRWs then i had diamond tapper turn to the second ring land that was the hot trick back then. but i think its been almost that long when i had JE build me my first set of custom pistons for the 572 .well time flys

one trick i did was sort of like the diesel pin where the top of rod is tapered so the pin boss in the piston overlaps the lower side of the rod pin area and used a short pin--even cut the pin ends at about 20* angle and used interferance(pressed) fit---
Tango probably does that since he works on diesels

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

one trick i did was sort of like the diesel pin where the top of rod is tapered so the pin boss in the piston overlaps the lower side of the rod pin area and used a short pin--even cut the pin ends at about 20* angle and used interferance(pressed) fit---
Tango probably does that since he works on diesels

no but i turned the pin down abit on the lathe on press pins to get some weight out on the piston then i did not feel like cutting the hell out of the piston to get a weight match on a new replacement piston when the maker plays with the design of the replacement to match up a used set with one or two new pistons. i also played with pins with thinner or heaver wall pins

See, the difference is, guys like you, Pat, and Jerry, know this stuff and the right way to do it. Me, I take the kit out of the box, check the ring gap, and in it goes. It is a little noisy yet, but like you mention, I'm running a strong cam (X303 Ford Racing) and the short pistons, so I guess it is just going to be that way.

I got it out and put more miles on it today, everything seems fine, and I got to check the temp against the cap thermometer and the infared gun. They both read 170 and my temp gauge reads 220! I already changed gauges and senders, same reading. I have the sender right at the thermostat housing, so that might fit into what Jerry was talking about earlier.

I can also put my hand on both hoses and they are hot, but not too hot to hold, so my inclination is to believe the car is actually running at the 170-180 level.

Don

Don can you move the temp sending unit farther back on the intake? Is it the right Ohms for the gauge( I know you already know this, but maybe they packaged them wrong?)