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Thread: Knock on wood, 27 seems ok.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    one trick i did was sort of like the diesel pin where the top of rod is tapered so the pin boss in the piston overlaps the lower side of the rod pin area and used a short pin--even cut the pin ends at about 20* angle and used interferance(pressed) fit---
    Tango probably does that since he works on diesels

  2. #2
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    one trick i did was sort of like the diesel pin where the top of rod is tapered so the pin boss in the piston overlaps the lower side of the rod pin area and used a short pin--even cut the pin ends at about 20* angle and used interferance(pressed) fit---
    Tango probably does that since he works on diesels
    no but i turned the pin down abit on the lathe on press pins to get some weight out on the piston then i did not feel like cutting the hell out of the piston to get a weight match on a new replacement piston when the maker plays with the design of the replacement to match up a used set with one or two new pistons. i also played with pins with thinner or heaver wall pins
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  3. #3
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    See, the difference is, guys like you, Pat, and Jerry, know this stuff and the right way to do it. Me, I take the kit out of the box, check the ring gap, and in it goes. It is a little noisy yet, but like you mention, I'm running a strong cam (X303 Ford Racing) and the short pistons, so I guess it is just going to be that way.

    I got it out and put more miles on it today, everything seems fine, and I got to check the temp against the cap thermometer and the infared gun. They both read 170 and my temp gauge reads 220! I already changed gauges and senders, same reading. I have the sender right at the thermostat housing, so that might fit into what Jerry was talking about earlier.

    I can also put my hand on both hoses and they are hot, but not too hot to hold, so my inclination is to believe the car is actually running at the 170-180 level.

    Don

  4. #4
    stovens's Avatar
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    Don can you move the temp sending unit farther back on the intake? Is it the right Ohms for the gauge( I know you already know this, but maybe they packaged them wrong?)
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  5. #5
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Steve, I am going to move it to the other spot on the intake to see what it does there. Yeah, it is a matched set of Teleflex gauge and sender, and so far I have tried two separate gauges and two separate senders, same reading.

    I'm convinced at this point that the car is not running at the temp the gauge is showing, and drove it more today in traffic and the gauge went to 220, but the one on the cap still shows 170ish. I may use that direct reading gauge I have and intall it temporarily to just get one more reading.

    Don

  6. #6
    cffisher's Avatar
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    Don don't you just love the way things are all calibrated the same
    Charlie
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    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
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  7. #7
    Mr Blue's Avatar
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    Glad to see Pops is back on the road! I was tired of having the only running car in the shop

    Let me tell you his roadster is wicked fast.... He took me around the block in her and I was screamin for mommy after the ride.

    I am not buying his temp reading on the gauge at all. The infrared gun and the Mr. Gasket temperature gauge radiator cap agree at 170-180. Thats what I think is the true temp.

    Don Jr.
    Don Jr.
    "Once again I have thoroughly disgusted myself"

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