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Thread: 1931 Model A Build Started in 2007
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Well after reading directions for setting up sub frame , I measured and checked a few times and marked center . Heidts directions only allow 1 degree negative to rear for bump steer issues so I made sure I held it in that tolerance.


    So with everything set and a check over many times on its position I clamped the sub frame into weld position .


  2. #17
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    Here they wanted a inside boxing plate installed before setting the sub frame so I had them prepared before welding .

    Here after I welded it all in and mocked in control arms and spindle I was amazed the 103.5 inch wheel base was right on . I stone finished all the welds to smooth them out . You see additional weld platter from more welding .






  3. #18
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    Here it is a mock up assembly ,



  4. #19
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    Not to be a ball buster but WHY did you dress the welds?? You are aware that they are at their strongest in the "delivered" state .......

    If you were not happy with the "look" and plan on going over them then that'd be OK.

    If you noticed ...... Heidts does NOT dress the welding they do ....

    I only say this as a very experienced welder (I'm a retired GE Power Generation guy) & hate to see front end stuff break with a car load of people in it @ 65mph (not that your will - just a thought).

    REGS

  5. #20
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    Regs the welds looked fine I did it just to smooth . I did do 6 passes on it to make sure I had a thick enough weld to grind with out thinning .

    But believe me I will install a new pass since you explained this . I figured Heidts didn't do it just to save time . So this is why they use plastic to smooth instead of stone grinding , Thank you for the heads up and I will correct it . I am here learning you are not busting me down .

  6. #21
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    I'm glad you took this the way it was ment ...... as a guide to assist you. I'm also on a few motorcycle forums & am ALWAYS disturbed when I see people that are grinding down the weldment on those frames.

    A mud swipe can easily be done on a properly welded (penitration wise) weld.

    I prefer the clean "roll of dimes" look myself .... my work:

    http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...Picture615.jpg

    REGS
    Last edited by REGs; 12-26-2009 at 09:10 PM.

  7. #22
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Im just glad it was pointed out because safety is the first thought . Like I said this also explains the plastic which is easier I think them dressing welds . Thank You again


    Your work is great I can lay a nice weld but not doing it daily it may have nickels in it LOL
    Last edited by bluestang67; 12-26-2009 at 07:29 PM.

  8. #23
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    Bobby - I checked the webshots & IMO your project is coming right along.

    I hear ya on the nickels ...... everyone starts some place. Continued practice is key. I didn't get good at this by hitt'n the TIG torch once & a while. When I don't weld for a week or so I usually run a bead or two on a practive plate .....

    I do steel but love clean aluminum.

    Keep up the good work.

    REGS

  9. #24
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    This is the left rear fender that had damage . Zack worked over for a good 5 hours but it is really close to a stamping . I thought this fender was trash and had been looking for one .







    This is the left front he worked for me also .

    http://rides.webshots.com/video/3081...02070080UEtgEj



  10. #25
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    Looks good, Bobby. That's some fine hammer & dolly work; wish I had his touch.

  11. #26
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Lookin' great, Bobby! Installing some of the big parts and front suspension makes it look like you accomplished a lot---then other days you can work 10 hours and it doesn't look like you did anything!!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by falconvan View Post
    Looks good, Bobby. That's some fine hammer & dolly work; wish I had his touch.
    He did a lot off heat shrinking and stretching to get it there with the hammer and dolling . Wish I had half his talent also .



    Dave I have had it together and apart so many times I don't know if I did anything sometimes LOL . But it soon will be close .

  13. #28
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I feel a little bit like I'm stuck in a time warp right now since we've seen this before . Are you putting all of this together in one thread now because you decided to finish it or are you still trying to sell it as a project?
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  14. #29
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    Putting it all together for the new members and finishing it . But 35 that is a compliment seeing you remember it Thank You I can still see your 35 and I need you build site again if you would . . But it's still going on the block But nothing is selling as a project . . I still have done some new but starting from the beginning is 2 years old .

    I would move through it fast but some would miss out . Like the response Regs gave very informational I never knew that . I always thought the strength was in the root weld and the clean passes over it .

  15. #30
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    The frame short and simple . Start to just shy of done .




    son removing bumper hardware








    Also remember to add mounting hardware before boxing in frame .
    Last edited by bluestang67; 12-31-2009 at 10:03 PM.

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