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Thread: 1950 Studebaker Champion Mordoor project!
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    dmw56's Avatar
    dmw56 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jul 2008
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    Edgewood, New Mexico, United States
    Car Year, Make, Model: 30,34,39,50,54,65,68,70,71,72
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    Put on a new power brake booster this one is 7" diameter. The stock GM one was hitting the fender. As it is I will still have to modify the fender for clearance.



    Steering Shaft using a SS Borgeson double universal Chevy splined to double D.



    I'm using a support in the middle since it has 3 universals in the shaft. Lower universl is a SS Borgeson Mustang II rack to double D

    Last edited by dmw56; 02-20-2010 at 11:25 PM.
    Livin' on Route 66

  2. #2
    dmw56's Avatar
    dmw56 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    After some research I found out that a Chevy 55-57 radiator with the 6 cylinder mounts will work with some minor mods.

    The size is almost exacty the same dimensions. It has the center inlet and passenger side outlet. It is aluminum with 2-1" cores.







    Livin' on Route 66

  3. #3
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Well after a year of putting it off I'm finally started back to work on the Studebaker. I spent 2 days clean up all the junk around the car so I can get work on it and have room to get the gantry crane over it to pull the body off.



    I assembled the body dolly I bought. I know I could have built it but sometimes it's just easier and less expensive just to buy it. I'll get plenty of use out of it in thr future too.



    The car is amazingly straight and rust free. Since we have owned it since 1969 and it spent a good part of it's life in CA or garaged. I did finish all the body work and primered it back in 1977 but never painted it. It's been a Rat Rod for 32 years. But I plan on doing a shinet paintjob on it.



    Livin' on Route 66

  4. #4
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Here is the rear end from a 2003 Chevy S10, it fit perfect. Spring perch width was exactly the same. I'm even using the same drive shaft it turned out to be the exact length needed.



    I weld the rear spring mounts to the frame reinforced with a piece of angle iron. The springs are lowering leafs, spring mounts, lower shock mounts and u-bolts are from Chassis Engineering.





    The front spring mounts I made and are bolted onto the frame.



    [/QUOTE]
    Livin' on Route 66

  5. #5
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Cleaned out the car I've been storing stuff in it. Took a picture of the trunk. Just a little surface rust but as solid as it was 59 years ago. I will leave it as is just clean it up.





    Livin' on Route 66

  6. #6
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Finally pulled the body off the frame just a little bit to go and I'll get it on the dolly.







    Frame is fully boxed and in excellant condition. I just need to put in some angle braces to the center cross member and finish the drive shaft hoop. Make a removable rear transmission crossmember and some upper rear shock mounts. The stock mounts may work just fine.

    Livin' on Route 66

  7. #7
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Got the car on the dolly and moved them around so I could work on them both. I'm running out of room!





    This the only rust on the entire car.



    Finished the drive shaft hoop. This was the support crossmember for the center bearing for the original two piece driveshaft. I just cut the center out and raised it up the floor rests on the top on a piece of rubber. I added half if a 4" pipe on the bottom.

    Livin' on Route 66

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