Thread: Streetwerkz 30 sedan build

Tweet

The build is to the point where I have to have the frame.... so we started on it
I took my cad drawling over to my buddy's early ford chassis shop to start the frame build.
Brian Cantrell of Car Company makes bar none the best Model A frame on the market, so nice in fact he supply's many hot rod shops through out the U.S..
Car Company is Pete and Jakes main supplier for model A frames, also their frame was recently featured on the "Wrench Clothing" build for West Coast Customs tv show.

So yes while we could build a model a frame in house, why would we when we can use such a talented company, with all the proper frame jigs, and fixtures.
They are only a 1/2 mile away, and you guessed it, trading powder coat for the bulk of the labor :mrgreen:

So on this one I'm the helper, it's my design, and Car Company is the craftsman, here's where we are as of last night
All the main stock cut to length, and the front frame horns cut to shape. I did get to cnc plasma cut the rear kick up gussets.
Not to bad for 2 people and 5 hours of werk

Well I don't know who's bright idea this was... but they need kicked in the butt.

Well, ok it was mine, I noticed a ton of rust in the gaps, and one thing lead to another and well... here it sits lol

time to get her blasted up, and repaired... I only want to do this 1 time, so getting rid of all the rust is a must

Yes they should have their head looked at.........lol
Well it is the best time to remove the rust maybe it's not so crazy.
Bradc

Originally Posted by BradC

Yes they should have their head looked at.........lol
Well it is the best time to remove the rust maybe it's not so crazy.
Bradc

Yeah, I really didn't want to take the car all the way down... but at this point why not?

I'm still focused, and determined... however I will say that my skill set is going to be DRASTICALLY improved by this project

been SWAMPED at werk, gotten a few things done
God how I wish I could get 2 weeks of no werk to really just kick ass on this thing
Got some more sheet metal werk done on the cowl
made a new rear sub frame x-member, had some 11 ga bent into a "C" channel, then traced the profile on the old one, radius pie cut the "C" channel to match the old x-member, and bingo, werkz great!!
So, 4 hours of labor later, and trading a favor to the sheet metal shop I find out I could have purchased this same part for $70:laughing1:
O-well
layed up the sub frame, squared and centered everything on the table to start welding her up.
Got the perimeter frame back from Car Co., it looks great!!
A few things I couldn't figure for are going to need changed, but nothing major.
computer can only get you close when your mentally challenged like I am :biggrin:
anyway, here's some pics

a few more

Wow Josh, you have really come sooooooo far on this project. The body is starting to shape up well too and the subframe will make it all straight.

BTW, if you are going to run a stainless cowl band on it, let me know. We are now "experts" in getting one to fit properly, after wrestling with the one on Dan's car for a full week. We finally found out what we were doing wrong and now it fits as it should.

Looking really good Josh, keep us in the loop, we love your updates.

Don

Looks really good! Just curious, how many degrees did you put your front cross member in at?
Ken

Thanks Don.
One of the things I'm debating still is if I run the band, or smooth that entire section out, give it a aerodynamic look.
If I go with the band I'll let you know, I remember it being a pita to get out.

Ken
It's currently set at 7 degrees with the frame level. of course this may change once I can get the sub frame finished, (which I can now do because I have the frame), then get the body together to figure out the frame, and body rake.

I'm still determined to finish this project, it is amusing all of the additional werk I am doing on this one. Alot of back asswards stuff I have to do because of having so little to start with, but I have learned a TON of new things, and know I'll learn a ton more before she's done, which is the most enjoyable part right now.

This is just my opinion on this issue. It's has been disgust here a few times and opinions vary. So here is mine, most cars sit at 2 to 4 degrees of rake. So if you add that to your caster, which I like to be around 7 or 8 degrees, your cross member would wind up at 9 to 12 degrees. I like a lot of caster, the car tracks better going down the road and it returns quicker after making a turn. The negative side of this is it is a little harder to turn the wheel at real slow speeds. You want correct caster without putting anything in a bind in your front end.
Ken

on 7-12 degrees, more caster is better at speed then?
how would this equate/effect high speed vs parking lot driving with a blown big block?
I don't want to road race, but I guarantee I'll beat this sucker like it stole something

We went with 7 degrees strictly because that's what his fixture is set for.

However the x-members both front and back are just heavy tig tacked on the corners.

until I can get the body to a reasonable stage I don't know how all the locations and positions we currently have will werk out.

my dilemma in this regard is I can't fully commit to (anything on this project lol) how much rake I want in the frame, and body, until I can place them together and play with it.

That's correct, caster helps the car go straighter. Weight on the front end does have an affect on how hard it is to steer. These cars have such an engine position that the weight distribution is really pretty good. So as for as your motor I wouldn't be afraid of running 6 or 7 degrees in it at ride height.
This is my red roadster and I run 8 degrees in it, and my wife drives it to the grocery store.
Ken

very good info, thanks!!!

Project is looking good! Probably better than your fingers will look after that wheel gets their

Hey what can you tell me about that nifty little laser you showed? I could use one or two of those to hard mount for my chassis table.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

The lasers I bought off ebay a few years back for around $20-$30 ea.
they are infinitely adjustable in rotation.

I bought 4 of them at the time, and don't regret it one bit, they are very handy, and bright. they came in the housing, just hook up a battery and go

9 volt battery power source, I know I have at least 100 hours on the current battery