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Thread: My 1930 model a project
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    dubya31's Avatar
    dubya31 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2010
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    Bear Lake
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    I know what you mean about body lines. My body was a real turd. No rust, but I think it was used to plow fields. I had to cut the doors diagonally and reshape to get the A pillar and the belt lines to line up. I think I'll tack the doors were I want them and then cut the rear pillar and top to get the right gap to recess them. I was planning to make the recess fron 20 gauge on the brake, but I would like to see what you did with the flat and 1/2" square. It's not going to be easy, but I want the flush fit.

  2. #2
    PRO53's Avatar
    PRO53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Nov 2006
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1930 sedan,1953 f-100,1950 sedan
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    239

    Quote Originally Posted by dubya31 View Post
    I know what you mean about body lines. My body was a real turd. No rust, but I think it was used to plow fields. I had to cut the doors diagonally and reshape to get the A pillar and the belt lines to line up. I think I'll tack the doors were I want them and then cut the rear pillar and top to get the right gap to recess them. I was planning to make the recess fron 20 gauge on the brake, but I would like to see what you did with the flat and 1/2" square. It's not going to be easy, but I want the flush fit.
    I never knew Henerys bodys were so far out of wack The 1/2 tubeing made it easier to curve to match the body. That is also what I used for the rain gutter. Heated, welded to body, grabed the plasma cutter and cut the top of it out. Then lots of grinding to make jambs, frame the opening with flat steel, then useing the tubeing to make the step, the flat steel again over the top, lots of tackeing but works
    1930 model a , 1953 ford truck
    "DOWN WITH THE SICKNESS"

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