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Thread: manual line lock
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    canadianal's Avatar
    canadianal is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    manual line lock

     



    I am looking at building a manual line lock on my bucket and plumbing in a small hyd line valve in the rear brake line isolating the rear brakes for the burnout . my thought would be to either install it in line between the master cyl and the rear brakes under car with a remote handle of some kind or running a brake line off the master up beside the seat on the left side so when one is strapped in the valve is easily accessed and then run the line right back down and to the rear of the car My only concern with this is, would the rear brake line be hard to bleed in that situation. any thoughts?

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianal View Post
    I am looking at building a manual line lock on my bucket and plumbing in a small hyd line valve in the rear brake line isolating the rear brakes for the burnout . my thought would be to either install it in line between the master cyl and the rear brakes under car with a remote handle of some kind or running a brake line off the master up beside the seat on the left side so when one is strapped in the valve is easily accessed and then run the line right back down and to the rear of the car My only concern with this is, would the rear brake line be hard to bleed in that situation. any thoughts?
    We did this exact same thing with Richie's first ride. '72 Chevy Luv w/455 Olds, TH400. Cut the line right where his left arm would drop down naturally and installed a 90 degree ball valve. Cut a small hole through the floor sheet metal and mounted it with the handle just up off the floor a smidgeon. Worked great. If you run the line up next to the floor from the firewall to where the valve is, you will probably have no problem with bleeding. We didn't.

  3. #3
    canadianal's Avatar
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    I remember you telling me that tech i was just worried about bleeding it as i need to get it about 1 ft above the floor as i cant reach the floor at all when i am strapped in .
    guess its off to the local shop for some brake line and fitting be for race season up her this spring it it ever comes supposed to snow again tomorrow

  4. #4
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Drill and tap the valve for a bleeder screw.

  5. #5
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Go to a truck parts supplier and get a LeverLock setup. It's DOT approved stuff, and works right. Just flip the lever and hit the brake, the valve holds pressure till you flip the lever back. And they have a bleeder in them. Great West or Brake and Drive in Swift should have them. There's an electric one, too, that doesn't require all the plumbing. Brake fluid might be hard on the seals in a ball valve.

  6. #6
    canadianal's Avatar
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    already got the valve pope its for hyd fluid, am going to brake and drive tomorrow to get fittings, if it dont work i can use theirs, i would prefer to lock out the rears and still be able to controll the front brakes to roll out gently.

  7. #7
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hydraulic fluid is oil, brake fluid is propylene glycol, totally different stuff.
    You can hook a LeverLock into the rear brake line as easy as anything else. I doubt that a non-DOT non-SAE valve would pass any kind of safety inspection.
    The best thing about the 'Lock is that you set it, then push the brake ...a one-way valve lets the fluid through to apply the brakes, then holds them on until you release them. Much easier operation.

  8. #8
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    I installed a bunch of THESE in lot of trucks. All worked great & was easy to install...joe
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