Thread: Powder coating frame versus painting.

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Originally Posted by STREETWERKZ

I tried it, it does not work
there are some high temp solders, but they pin hole very bad, and a real pain to sand

well i tried looks looks like steel or brass filler and alot of filling and sanding

Too much work and expense for me, think I'm gonna stick with primer, filler, and paint!!!!!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Too much work and expense for me, think I'm gonna stick with primer, filler, and paint!!!!!

well it is looking that way if you can not fill it that is why i never did the 9 under the GTO the ppg is holding it own last minute i past the coating up and just shot it with dau

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well it is looking that way if you can not fill it that is why i never did the 9 under the GTO the ppg is holding it own last minute i past it up and just shot it with dau

Yeah, know what ya mean, Pat.... Got a center section for a 9" that was a spare with big gears as a mock up for the 'maro. Think it was painted with Omni about 10 years ago and it's still shiny..... We've had race car frames powder coated in the past cuz it's durable and a sponsor paid for it.... I sure as heck wouldn't bother with powdercoating if I was going to have to scuff it and BC/CC the parts that show to get the smoothness and shine I want. Would seem a coat or two of hi-build primer and some block sanding would do the same as the powdercoating or am I missing something here???????

The only thing we have had coated so far are the four 1940 Ford wheels on Dan's 30. They came out nice, considering they are almost 70 years old, and when we had the tires mounted there was no scratching on the edges from the tire machine. We plan to have the rear end, driveshaft, front backing plates, and every bracket that unbolts powdered in black. If we go with the frame too the primary reason is to get into spots that are too tight to maneuver a gun, even a touch up gun. Plus black is a bear to spray, easy to get runs and unevenness.

Streetwerkz, you may have answered this question, but I don't see it. What filler DO you like?

Don

NO don black is very EZ to sray one of the hardest colors in solids was white i painted air plane wings it was very hard to see were you stop and started had to be on your game and watch you over lap i painted a sail boat about 25 plus foot cat type hull in white it was fun fun fun

The problem I see with black is the heaviness because of all the solids. With as many holes as this frame has punched in it, I can see it puddling in some of them and running out later, creating a run.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

The problem I see with black is the heaviness because of all the solids. With as many holes as this frame has punched in it, I can see it puddling in some of them and running out later, creating a run.

Don

it not bad if you have the gun set up pull in the fan abit and put down thin coats

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

The problem I see with black is the heaviness because of all the solids. With as many holes as this frame has punched in it, I can see it puddling in some of them and running out later, creating a run.

Don

Black isn't that tough I don't think, as Pat said cut the material amount down a bit... If you want a fun one, do a tube chassis complete with 12 point cage in a high metallic blue!!!! Got to do a bunch of coats and get good coverage on all of them. Got to go with Pat, on a black frame think I'd spend all my labor on prime and block on the frame, then shoot it with a hi-quality single stage, touch ups are a snap if you do get it chipped up.....

Someone said earlier on the powdercoating about areas where bars, brackets or whatever being in close proximity to each other and for whatever reason the powder doesn't stick good....another consideration on a frame I would think.....

As for the cost, maybe I'm just a cheapskate on paint, but I've sure never spent $4500 on time and materials for any frame.....or maybe my labor rate is considerably lower or something.......

Powdercoating is very durable, but I sure haven't seen it come out as smooth and deep looking as a quality paint job........

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

As for the cost, maybe I'm just a cheapskate on paint, but I've sure never spent $4500 on time and materials for any frame.............

WELL HELL NO $4500 WELL THAT WILL GET YOU A GOOD START ON A ALUM BLOCK IN BIG BIG CID IN A CHEVY OR GOD FORBID A FORD

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

WELL HELL NO $4500 WELL THAT WILL GET YOU A GOOD START ON A ALUM BLOCK IN BIG BIG CID IN A CHEVY OR GOD FORBID A FORD

Bless you my child!!! At least you have a Ford in your thoughts these days!!!!!!!!!

STREETWERKZ, Thanks for posting the cost of one of these powder painted frames. I am sure you and your shop do good work, and I personally think you should be paid "Your" price for "Your" work, but in your first post you state and I quote "Reduced Cost" your words not mine. Well that brings to mind a question. For your stated price of between $1,000 and $4,500 dollars just what are you comparing your "Reduced Cost" against? It's gotta be something like oh maybe Gold Plating or something like that. It sure is not for a good old fashioned Paint Job.

Roland

Originally Posted by Hombre259

STREETWERKZ, Thanks for posting the cost of one of these powder painted frames. I am sure you and your shop do good work, and I personally think you should be paid "Your" price for "Your" work, but in your first post you state and I quote "Reduced Cost" your words not mine. Well that brings to mind a question. For your stated price of between $1,000 and $4,500 dollars just what are you comparing your "Reduced Cost" against? It's gotta be something like oh maybe Gold Plating or something like that. It sure is not for a good old fashioned Paint Job.

Roland

Actually 1,000 to 4000 for a show quality job sounds about right for the left coast out here. I had to pay 125.00 just to coat two cast iron sink legs off a 1800's sink, and those were preblasted before I brought them in!
Chroming and powder coating is very expensive out here, as well as a good paint job. Thats why my truck will bee primer for a few years to come. Have to save those pennies for a nice job!

Originally Posted by Hombre259

STREETWERKZ, Thanks for posting the cost of one of these powder painted frames. I am sure you and your shop do good work, and I personally think you should be paid "Your" price for "Your" work, but in your first post you state and I quote "Reduced Cost" your words not mine. Well that brings to mind a question. For your stated price of between $1,000 and $4,500 dollars just what are you comparing your "Reduced Cost" against? It's gotta be something like oh maybe Gold Plating or something like that. It sure is not for a good old fashioned Paint Job.

Roland

reduced cost is our standard powder job.

we have a good, better, best program for coating.

our good powder job for a frame would include, blasting, sanding out major imperfections, phosphate chemical wash, then single stage powder.
95% of our customer get, and love this service.
typical frame up to 120 wb is around $600 - $700 + tax out the door ( which you can not buy good quality primer, paint reducer ect for, let alone apply, sand, ect...)

These are photos of my powdercoated frame. The coater blasted off my original DuPont etch primer and Black Centari from the frame, body, running board and fender brackets, a bolt in crossmember, plugged 90+ holes and did it all for $480



There is a bit of peel, but not excessive. I originally had a very nice paint job on the frame, but it really scratched up while working on it and can only guess how bad it would have been after driving the car for a while. I've dropped fasteners, wrenches and body parts on it with no more then a minor scuff that was polished out. When I equate the number of hours that I originally spent getting it ready, then having to redo my work again after the first paint job decided that powder was the way to go. Then since I really couldn't get into the inside of the boxed frame at all that cinched the deal. And Don, in Florida's mystical and salty climate, that's the only sure way never to have rust streaks coming from unused openings