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Thread: 1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    38project's Avatar
    38project is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jul 2005
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    Miami
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1938 Chevy Coupe
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    Wow! Great work, going back and reading the build from the start is like reading your favorite book all over again.
    Thanks for the detailed post and pictures. It helps me and I sure it gives others ideas.
    Peace and Bacon Grease

    38Project

  2. #2
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Got a little done on the chubby today...or at least the exhaust guy got a little done.

    The exhaust guy is about 60 miles away, I had to rent an enclosed car trailer because they were talking about some bad weather.....woke up to a foot of snow this morning Last weekend it was 70 degrees and sunny and no snow was left....now winter starts all over.

    Glad I rented the trailer because the rodes were just crap, the trailer was covered in slush, ice, salt and snow when I got there...better the trailer than the car. Few pics of the action, I thought he did a hell of a job. He was able to make it in 1 piece from the headers to the mufflers, lots of bends and got it tucked up nice and tight.

    I got home this afternoon and continued wiring. Probably more of that tomorrow, still waiting on from wheel adapters from rally america. If those ever show up I might be able to drive this thing?

    Matt
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  3. #3
    bluestang67's Avatar
    bluestang67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2006
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    Heard that rumor of snow up that way in deep amounts . You and Dave keep it up there . The cold snaps are enough here .

    Matt the itch has to be growing and i bet you have put some time in the driver seat just waiting . How is the wiring going , not into a big hurry here when i get to that part .

  4. #4
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Matt, car is really looking good. Nice look to it and great stance. I like it a lot, so I hope the comment I am about to make is taken in that light. I don't think I ever noticed before what you are using for rear radius rods, but when I saw the picture today I had to say something.

    Those were never intended to be used as radius rods, they were originally used with Ford torque tube banjo rear ends, and the main thrust was absorbed by the torque tube. By themselves they are way too weak to do the job. There have been countless cases where they have broken or bent, even by the simple act of going over a RR track. Here is just one report:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...hlight=wrecked

    I know the ones in the story above are split, but it doesn't make any difference. These things are notorious for breaking, and no amount of gusseting will make them safe enough to use. I apologize for bringing this up at this late date, but I really felt you should know about this. I would hate to see your beautiful little hot rod messed up or something happen to you or someone else. I hope you understand.

    Don
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    Last edited by Itoldyouso; 04-26-2008 at 08:40 PM.

  5. #5
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Matt, car is really looking good. Nice look to it and great stance. I like it a lot, so I hope the comment I am about to make is taken in that light. I don't think I ever noticed before what you are using for rear radius rods, but when I saw the picture today I had to say something.

    Those were never intended to be used as radius rods, they were originally used with Ford torque tube banjo rear ends, and the main thrust was absorbed by the torque tube. By themselves they are way too weak to do the job. There have been countless cases where they have broken or bent, even by the simple act of going over a RR track. Here is just one report:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...hlight=wrecked

    I know the ones in the story above are split, but it doesn't make any difference. These things are notorious for breaking, and no amount of gusseting will make them safe enough to use. I apologize for bringing this up at this late date, but I really felt you should know about this. I would hate to see your beautiful little hot rod messed up or something happen to you or someone else. I hope you understand.

    Don

    Hi Don,

    I had saw your post earlier in the thread about this subject. I wasn't ignoring you or anyone else...I guess I didn't want to get into a big debate about it either.

    There are a couple older local hot rod guru's I glean a lot of info off of and they are the ones who recomended doing it like this..in fact one of them gave me the rods. I did mention your concern to him to see what he thought. I'm not saying it's right or wrong, but he has built several hot rods and is currently running a 32 Ford with the same set up for the last 4 years. Like I said...not saying it's right or wrong...I just have a friend that has used, and is using this set up first hand and it works well.

    I think if I had a motor that had been built up and I was going to be stomping on the thing I might change my mind. My motor is a clapped out 350 with a couple bolt on performance parts and a ho-chi-mien chrome kit. I might regret my decision...and I sure hope I don't, but for now I am going to stick with it. And I sure hope you don't think that I am just blowing you off? I sure appreciate the info you and others supply on a regular basis.

    Thanks, Matt

  6. #6
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Worked on the chubby today for about 7 hours. Pretty much all of that was wiring, so it doesn't look like I have done anything.

    Quick question. I am using the stock 9" headlights. I was able to re-build the lower bulb socket and wiring, that is going to be my turn signal built into the headlight. Is there any headlight sockets or bulbs that could be fabbed into the hole in the pic? I have about 2.5" from the dish to the glass and the same distance to the back of the housing.

    Just wondering if there was some kit or upgrade others have done?


    Thanks, Matt
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  7. #7
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Matt, I do apologize for bringing it up (I didn't realize I had mentioned it earlier) and I'm glad you have checked it out. I just felt that even with a mild motor there is so much force on the rear axle, especially with coilovers that do little to control lateral and fore and aft movement, that they were too light and too long to do the job. I'm glad there are no hard feelings over me mentioning it.

    As for the headlights, you can get halogen conversion sockets that you can put in once you modify the reflector to fit them. You can also have your reflectors resilvered so they are very shiny. I think a mirror refinishing shop can do that, or maybe you might have to send them off to someone who specializes in doing these.

    Don

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