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Thread: 1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jan 2006
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    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Dang if you aren't rolling right along..........looks great. Your valve and switch will be fine that way. As for the brakes working with the wire wheels, yes you need the adapter that acts as a locating device for the wire wheels to sit correctly on the drum. Several people make these, like Rally America and maybe Wilson Welding. You said you bought a set for the back, so the same folks should be able to hook you up. If you don't use them the wheels tend to rock on the drums instead of holding firm.

    If you need the bearing numbers and what mods need done to make the truck brakes work on the early spindles, PM me, I have it somewhere.

    Proud of you guy, you are getting this thing done really well. The shiny stuff looks good on the engine too.

    Don

  2. #2
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Dang if you aren't rolling right along..........looks great. Your valve and switch will be fine that way. As for the brakes working with the wire wheels, yes you need the adapter that acts as a locating device for the wire wheels to sit correctly on the drum. Several people make these, like Rally America and maybe Wilson Welding. You said you bought a set for the back, so the same folks should be able to hook you up. If you don't use them the wheels tend to rock on the drums instead of holding firm.

    If you need the bearing numbers and what mods need done to make the truck brakes work on the early spindles, PM me, I have it somewhere.

    Proud of you guy, you are getting this thing done really well. The shiny stuff looks good on the engine too.

    Don
    Hi Don,

    On the front brake drums and rims. I do have some thing 1/8" plates that I got the same time I ordered the rear 1.5" spacers. Those front plates have a little lip on the inside edge supposedly to center and support stock wire spoke rims. The rear spacer has that little lip machined into it, but the rear spacer is a lot thicker so it can clear that 9" rear end drum. I guess that is what I was wondering, if those 53 drums are tapered in like the 40 drums or big and flat like the ford 9" rear end?

    Thanks, Matt

  3. #3
    Hotrod46's Avatar
    Hotrod46 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Feb 2007
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
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    Matt

    Your car is looking very good! I have to agree with Don about your building speed. I think I've spent more time thinking about my car than you have building yours!

    I don't see any reason why the switch and prop valve won't work like you have them. As long as you can get the air out, hydraulic systems aren't usually position sensitive.

    Mike

    Edit: I didn't see Dave's answer!
    Last edited by Hotrod46; 03-04-2008 at 08:15 AM.

  4. #4
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Put in a solid day today on the chubby. I had a buddy of mine that gave me a hand for about 6 hours.

    Pics pretty much say it all. Majority of the day was spent grinding down the body and doors with the zip wheel. I fired up the blaster outside and touched up a few hard to reach areas. I spent about 4 hours tonight cutting out a few lower rusty spots, bending up some new parts and welding them in. Turned out really nice. Spent about an hour with the hammer/dolly pounding on the body straightening out a few spots.

    Hoping to get a little more of the same done tomorrow and then going to try to get it into primer.

    Matt
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