Thread: So---With Visa card in hand I called Gennie Shifter---

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Still interested in your type side curtains but I took the easy way out and bought the "It's A Snap" headlights that have the yellow LED separately on the bottom of the lens and they do fit in the 7" Dietz bickets I have. There is a lot of misinformation regarding the braided cable from the radiator shell to the headlight bucket. Anyway, I am happy to report that the Speedway Dietz (stainless) buckets do work with the "It's-A-Snap" bulbs which hold an H4 bulb in the top part and have a larger segment along the bottom of the lens that is separate from the clear part. For me it is easier to mess with the bucket installation although the It's-A-Snap unit is expensive. The main point is that I was able to look at and compare in hand four different lamps as well as their tests at the recent NSRA Richmond National Meet and I came home with the It's-A-Snap units. I like your LED in bulb but I would have to cut the reflector and the LED in that case is somewhat within the white light when the headlights are on. The slight advantage of the It's-A-Snap unit is that there is a partition between the LED part and the H4 part. Anyway I am just glad that at this point I have parts that go together, fit and work which is somewhat of a rarity for me! I also ordered a neat unit for LED tail lights from Bratton Model A parts which is just inserted where the stock lens would be and the leads plug into the stock bulb sockets so I will have LED turn signals all the way around.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Boxstr. I am still studying your side curtains and I like the use of the smooth snaps on the front edge of the windshield pillars. Although that is not an original setup it looks smoother than the pegs which leave a hole around the snap. I am attaching a picture of my Dietz stainless buckets now in place which shows the LED lens along the bottom of the "bulb" and it is clear when the LED is off. I am not sure if I can find wire covers long enough to use the bottom of the bolt because the stock cable sleeves are only 12" long and with the dropped bar the headlights are now lower relative to the grommet holes in the side of the stock radiator shell. One way out is to drill a hole in the back of the bucket for the cables similar to the way the stock Model A headlights attached the cable but I am trying to avoid messing up the shells with hand-drilled holes. I have the braided lines from Speedway but they are thin and it would be hard to get another wire in the thin sleeve for the turn signal light. The "It's-A-Snap" bulbs actually have three wires in addition to the usual three for the headlight but there is no way I/you can get six wires in that thin braided sleeve. If I have to drill holes in the back of the bucket I can attach the LED ground wire to the ground wire for the H4 bulb inside the bucket and cut off the wire for the parking light option so that I will only have one wire to the LED and hopefully by giving up the parking light option I can get the fourth wire through the braided cable. But first I want to try the thicker stock flex cable whoich might allow all six wires or certainly five using a common ground wire. Boxstr, I am sorry to not use your neat LED solution but the separation between the H4 area and the LED area is partitioned off here and I wanted to avoid fabrication with my associated foibles. The two circles on the firewall are special aluminum rims around rubber grommets for the heater hoses.

Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder