Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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[QUOTE=Ken Thurm;402587]Don -- Thanks, yes, that's exactly what I got. I just imagined after the interior is all in and I'm cruising down the road and at a certain speed the harmonics from the wind and the vibration of the motor creating this rubbing of the roof to the bows and driving me nuts.

Ken, that 3M panel adhesive is great to work with. We used it between each floor rib in Dans subframe and the sheetmetal floor.

It will definitely dampen out any harmonics in your roof, that stuff is just like welding the two parts together. Oh, did you get the special gun for applying it yet?

Don

Ken, we may have an update. Dan just came in and I showed him what you are doing, and he said he isn't 100% sure, but he has seen threads where someone did the 3M routine on the bows and when the top heated up from the sun it would distort the top because the metal couldn't expand or contract because it was glued down so tightly to the bows. He has heard it is better to put a thin strip of weather stripping on top of each bow to dampen out any harmonics.

Not 100% certain, but that is what he has seen others post.

Don

Thats correct Don, i've seen it happen here in england, when the temp gets up to around 79-80 things start moving.

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Ken, we may have an update. Dan just came in and I showed him what you are doing, and he said he isn't 100% sure, but he has seen threads where someone did the 3M routine on the bows and when the top heated up from the sun it would distort the top because the metal couldn't expand or contract because it was glued down so tightly to the bows. He has heard it is better to put a thin strip of weather stripping on top of each bow to dampen out any harmonics.

Not 100% certain, but that is what he has seen others post.

Don

Nice column Ken, I noticed you use nylon bushes, I use the same but some people over here say to use bearings, I just can't see the need for them myself.

Don - Thanks, yes, I can go in either direction. Also I can slow it down or speed it up with the pitman arm by varying the length. So unless I have made a catastrophic mistake I should be covered. It is so tight by the headers I'm going to have to relieve the body some and put a small tunnel in the underside of the collector for the tie rod end to clear it's travel path. But getting the geometry correct was most important to me. I want it easy to steer and no bump steer, it's for my wife.

Well you guys have scared the bejesus out of me, so I went back to the body shop and got some different stuff, I'll get the name when I get to work and see if you have heard of it.

Steve - Yes, I only use nylon now. I have tried them all, oil lite bushings, roller bearings, sealed bearings, I don't see any difference. I like doing it this way because when I use a little interference when I press them in, than I ream the ID so I get the clearance I want on the steering shaft.
Ken

Well the insert is welded in. It came out really nice, I believe I will be able to metal finish it. All the time it took to make the bracing inside was worth it. It kept the shape threw the whole process. Now I can beat on it and everything stays put. I hate body filler, this way I think primer will take out any small imperfections.
The photo isn't very good.
Ken

Looks bloody great to me Ken, nice job !!!