Can't wait Jim. Been a long time since I saw that little thing.
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Can't wait Jim. Been a long time since I saw that little thing.
Well, I have figured it out for now. This old computer won't talk to my camera, but it will read a flash drive. My new laptop will download from the camera, but won't up load to this site, so... I put the pics on the laptop and resize them, transfer them to a flash drive, then load 'em into this computer and upload to the site.:whacked: Sheesh! What a pain, but here we go
Since I completed the wiring and cooling systems a while back, I have been knocking other things off the punch list. I had glass put in the windshield frame about 3 weeks ago just before I bought the license plates. I installed a horn inside the nose and put a catch-can on the radiator.
Way back when I started this project I said I would show everything, right or wrong, warts and all. One of the pics below (which uploaded out of order as usual:mad:) show the hinges I made for the deck lid which didn't work. The other pics show the hinges I ended up with and the deck lid installed. Those hinges are "disappearing hinges" from the cabinet hardware section at Lowe's (Sure wish I had looked there first!:rolleyes:). The pic with the lid open also shows part of the reinforcement I put around the opening. I used pressure-treated wood (2 x 4 ripped to 1 1/2 x 1 1/4) that I screwed and glued in place with body filler. After the body filler hardened, I removed the screws, countersunk the holes, reinstalled the screws with all-purpose glue on the threads, and then filled over the screws with more body filler. A little sanding and a fresh shot of primer and it looks like it's always been that way.:3dSMILE:
looking very nice. Thanks for the update.
Jim, thanks for keeping us in the loop.
All the little things will keep a body busy!
During my first couple of test-drives I was running this thing with no exhaust system. All it had was the original manifold and about 6 inches of exhaust pipe that had been cut with a torch.:eek: Actually, the manifold doesn't look too bad; it's a welded tube assembly that looks like a header, but the short pipe was not acceptable. Aside from being too loud to keep the neighbors and local constabulary happy, it backfired repeatedly whenever shifting or decelerating.:rolleyes: The solution, of course, was to put a longer pipe on it which gets the sound behind the passenger compartment, mellows it just a bit, and eliminates the backfiring.:cool:
I began by looking for some exhaust tubing. None of the local auto parts stores carry any long straight sections; all they have is 2 ft. pieces in stock. If you want 6 or 8 ft. sections you have to order them and wait overnight. If you want bends, they also have to be ordered and wait 2 to 4 days depending on which store you get them from. I didn't want to wait, so I went in search of alternative materials. At my local Lowe's I found some 90 degree bends in the electrical conduit section. The 2 inch stuff actually measures about 2 1/4 inches in diameter. Next, I went to the chain-link fence section and found a corner post that measures 2 3/8 inches. The conduit bend fits nicely inside the fence post. All this stuff is thinwall tubing, galvanized inside and out, and it's considerably cheaper than exhaust tubing!:D I came home with a fence post and two conduit elbows. Also, in the fence section I found a clamp that fits perfectly around the pipe (post) to use for a hanger.
I attempted to upload some pictures, but for some reason the "Manage Attachments" window won't open. I don't know if the problem is with my computer or with this site. I'll try again later...
:LOL::LOL:EMT conduit and a fence post! Gotta love it! May have to shop Lowe's & Home Depot next time I'm working on exhaust.:LOL::LOL:
OK, the site seems to be working, so let's try again. Here are pictures of the conduit elbows (already partially cut & welded) and fence post I got from Lowe's and the finished exhaust pipe.:cool:
While I was driving one day last week, my windshield suddenly developed a crack in the upper left corner!:eek: I took it off to have the glass replaced, so while it's out of the way I decided this would be a good time to modify the tunnel and reposition the pedals. I removed the gas pedal assembly, shifter lever & boot, and the battery. I cut the tunnel using a combination of cut-off saw and a power hacksaw. After removing a pie slice from the top of the tunnel and grinding the areas to clean and rough them up, I reattached it with a couple of small aluminum strips and pop-rivets, backed the gaps with masking tape, and applied three layers of glass mat and resin. (Of course the pictures are out of order as usual.) All that was necessary then was to heat and bend the brake pedal where I want it and reassemble everything. It's a lot easier to drive now.:D
Obviously mufflers ain't required in Florida ? Excellent idea for the use of materials too.
One other thing I did recently was add a reverse scoop to the hood to make it look more finished.:cool: The gaping hole with the carb sticking up through it was just ugly. Also, back when roadsters were being raced on the dirt tracks of America, it was not uncommon for them to have some sort of shield to protect the carb from flying dirt clods. I made a cardboard pattern, duplicated it in steel from an old door skin, welded it in place, and finished it off with some body filler and primer.:3dSMILE:
Hi Whiplash,
I actually don't know the exact reading of the law. I think it says something about noise level, but doesn't really stipulate HOW you keep it from being too loud. This little 151 cu. in. 4-cylinder is pretty mellow through that long pipe; if I get hassled about it I'll put a muffler on it or put a baffle in the pipe. Meantime, the sound reminds of an old MG-A or Triumph TR-3 from the 1950s.:3dSMILE:
Really nice touch to the hood! That looks great.
Really ingenious use of materials as usual Jim. I'd have spent bucks getting something that said "exhaust pipe". haahaa
Nice detail on the carb protector, gives it an extra old time racer look