Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[J. Robinson]

Thanks, guys. I wanted something different than just plain vertical bars or a circle which were common on those old cars. I considered putting my initials in there like some of the old-time buiders used to do, but when I saw this little flame-cut Jolly Roger at the Billetproof run and it was the only one cut from 1/4" plate, I knew it was meant to be.

I have done a couple of other small preparatory things (removing junk from the engine, taking measurements), but nothing that is picture-worthy.

I am tenatvely shooting for the Turkey Run. I only have 3 more major steps to complete before I blow this thing apart for finishing: (1) install the wood in the body (2) acquire and mount the windhield (3) fabricate and mount the 4-piece hood. Everything else (wiring, fuel & brake plumbing, upholstery, etc.) will be done at final assembly. Time will tell...

[FMXhellraiser]

HURRY HURRY HURRY! No time to waste, so that means no sleep, no food, no fun. Work work work, all day and night long. I can't wait to see it finished.

[J. Robinson]

Alright guys, we have our marching orders. FMX says no home maintenance, no job, no sleep, no food, no fun, no nothing until these cars are done! So, get off your asses, get to the garage, and get to work! Jeez, what a task master...

OK, here's today's progress. My objective, ultimately, is to fabricate the hood. Like most of these fiberglass T bodies, though, this one has no lip around the firewall to support a hood. So.., I gotta fix that. I began by making a poster board pattern of the firewall. Once I got the shape correct, I trimmed an additional 3/16 inch off the outside edge all the way around. Next, I transferred the shape to a piece of 1/2" OSB board (could have used plywood or particle board) and cut out the shape. This piece was used as a "buck" to form the 1/2 x 3/4 - 1/16th wall aluminum angle.

Some of the actual shaping is done by simply bending the aluminum angle around the buck, but it has to be persuaded a lot with clamps and a hammer & dolly. I made a lot of trips between my two vises and even used the concrete floor as a dolly to flatten the kinks and wrinkles out of the back side. I don't know if Professor Hammer would do it this way, but I am completely self taught in metal-shaping and it works. Aluminum is soft and the body hammer moves the molecules pretty easily. Eventually, I got the aluminum angle shaped so it fits snugly on the wood buck. When I attach this to the firewall, it will form the lip needed to support the hood.

[Dave Severson]

I like using the wooden bucks, the old hammerforming method is still a heck of a good way to form metal..... Are you sure using aluminum isn't cheating though?????

[Itoldyouso]

That's a good way to make it Jim. Are you going to make the hood from aluminum too?


Don

[J. Robinson]

The hood will be made from steel. In keeping with the old hotrod principal of "use what you have lying around", recycled industrial shelving to be precise... First I need to finish the firewall & lip and add another lip to the nose. Stay tuned...

[Dave Severson]

The hood will be made from steel. In keeping with the old hotrod principal of "use what you have lying around", recycled industrial shelving to be precise... First I need to finish the firewall & lip and add another lip to the nose. Stay tuned...

There ya go JR, take what you got and make it what you want!!!! I always figured if you make the part yourself, and nobody really notices it or thinks it came that way......Ya done good!!!!!!

PS---Just thinking out loud, but how much blower do ya suppose an old Iron Duke 4 banger would tolerate????? hmmmmmmm.

[oldrodder43]

You continue to amaze me Jim. "Take what you got and make what you want". I got no imagination, except, paw through books until I see it, then I can make it. Great job as with your Coupe, Great Workmanship! Perley

[J. Robinson]

With the firewall lip made, the next step is to make the metal firewall cover. First thing I did was put the pattern back in place and tape it to the body. Then I used the rubber side of a dead-blow hammer to tap on the areas where the master cylinder and bolt holes need to be. Tapping with a rubber hammer caused the poster board to deform slightly and leave an imprint of the holes on the back side. In the picture, I have drawn in some of the holes with a Sharpie pen so they would show up better, but the real imprint is on the back side.

After cutting out the holes in the pattern and checking them for fit, I transferred the shape to some .025" aluminum sheet. (I actually prefer .040" aluminum, but .025 was all Lowe's had and since it's going to be laminated to the fiberglass it will be OK.) I cut out the aluminum with ordinary aviator snips and then taped and clamped it to the buck that I used for shaping the lip. With a solid backing behind it, hole-sawing and drilling the necessary holes was easier and safer.

The firewall and lip could be drilled and installed at this point, but I want this car to look like a high-end race car from the late 40's - early 50's, so... One thing that was popular on early race cars was an "engine turned" finish on aluminum (and sometimes brass) panels...

[Itoldyouso]

Pretty cool , Jim. As I mentioned, you have been the topic of a few conversations while we have been working in the shop. Dan was intrigued by the torsion bar suspension on your coupe. He says one like that would have solved a lot of engineering issues in his own car.

What is neat about what you do is that you can take very normal parts and turn them into something else altogether. Me, I'm kind of a 1-800 send it now kind of guy. I'm really enjoying this build of yours and can't wait to see it IN NOVEMBER?????? If not, maybe at Billetproof next year.

Don

[J. Robinson]

I honestly don't know how "engine-turning" was done originally, but back in the early 70's when I was building quarter-midgets, I devised this method:

All that's needed is a rotary wire brush, a drill to turn it, a straight edge guide of some sort, and a few clamps. The piece to be "swirled" needs to be clamped to a flat surface. For this firewall, I used the wood buck again and clamped it and the firewall to my folding work table. For the straight edge guide, I used a piece of aluminum square tubing. (I could have used a piece of angle iron or even a strip of wood. I have done both in the past.)

With the firewall clamped to the table so it would hold still, I clamped the straight edge guide across the firewall 1/2" from the bottom (because I'm using a 1" brush. If I was using a bigger brush, I would start with 1/2 the diameter of the brush). I start at one side, with the rotary brush spinning at top speed and riding against the straight edge guide, I push it down so that it makes a brushed circle. I move 1/2 the diameter of the circle so they overlap and do another one, then another, another, etc. all the way across. Once ya get the hang of this, you can make the overlapping swirls at the rate of about one per second.

After finishing a row all the way across, I move the straight edge guide up 1/2 the diameter of the swirls and do the next row. I just keep repeating until the whole piece is finished. Notice I started from the bottom so I would have a straight side to start from. Every time I move the straight edge guide, I check it with the tape rule to make sure I'm keeping it straight. About halfway through a piece like this, it feels like you're never going to get it done, but eventually you end up with an engine-turned panel.

After the engine-turning exercise was complete, I flipped the buck over and clamped the firewall and lip to the back side so I could pre-drill the rivet holes. Then I set the firewall in place on the car, drilled some holes in the fiberglass, and riveted the firewall and lip temporarily in place. When I actually install this for good, I will use contact adhesive behind the firewall so it won't rattle or squeak and I will put in all the rivets (only used 4 for now).

[Itoldyouso]

You CAN'T cover that up with a hood.........way too pretty.

Don

[J. Robinson]

Thanks for the compliments, Don.
I'm shooting for the Turkey Run. I wasn't originally pushing for that, but recently realized that it is an attainable goal, so... Now the push is on! Yeehaa!!

[Itoldyouso]

Yeah man, you've got 147 days left!!!! I just noticed something Jim, you have like only 655 posts, and have built 3 cars on here. You are a man of few words, maybe that's why you get your cars done and I don't.

Don

[Ken Thurm]

Wow!! You have got a lot done, it really looks good, great craftsmanship.
Ken