Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[hotroddaddy]

Ok i got you, i totally did not think of it that way, but your right.

[J. Robinson]

I just brought a pile of receipts in from the garage, so I thought this would be a good time to update the cost of the project so far. I haven't had to buy any major components recently, so the cost has not taken a major jump. I have made numerous trips to buy Bolts and nuts, however, so I added them all together instead of listing them separately. Anyway, here's where I am so far:

Previous total: $1520.18
Nuts & bolts: 32.70
Tubing: 48.64
Pinto shocks: 35.38
Rubber hose (for bushings): 2.72
Springs & shackle bolts: 55.17
Perch plates & shackles & bolts: 27.56

Total: $1722.35

I have the engine and trans sitting here, but I traded labor for them. As I have said before, "Labor is free when you're workin' for yourself."

[J. Robinson]

I am getting ready to leave for a week, but I wanted to set the engine & tranny in the frame before I left, so...

This job is much easier to accomplish with the body removed, but how do I know where to set the engine? I began by making a mockup of the firewall from a piece of masonite (In the pictures it looks like cardboard). Any thin, relatively stiff material can be used for this purpose. After notching the bottom edge to fit over the frame, I used a sharpie to trace the shape of the transmission tunnel onto the masonite and then cut it out. This piece was not the full size and shape of the actual firewall; I just needed something to get the location of the firewall and shape of the tunnel opening.

Next I removed the body, slung the engine into the frame, and then positioned the dummy firewall using my welder's magnets. Now I was able to position the engine in reference to the firewall and still have complete access to the transmission area.

I lucked out here. After wrestling with wood blocks and shims for a while I discovered that a couple of pieces of pipe inserted through the frame rails held the engine and trans at the perfect height! I used a short piece of 4x4 between the engine and front crossmember to hold it back in the correct location.

I ran out of time and won't get to fabricate the engine mounts until I get back, but, after removing the shifter, I set the body and nose back in place just to verify the fit. Proportions look good so far...

[Itoldyouso]

The engine fits perfectly in there and also fits the image of a track car well. I think you mentioned the engine runs and all, so that should put you way ahead.

Looks good.


Don

[J. Robinson]

Yes, the engine was running just a couple of days before it was removed from the S-10. The exhaust pipe is clean as a whistle inside which shows there was little or no oil consumption. I don't know the history of the truck, so I have no idea if this engine is original. My plan is to clean it up, paint it, adapt a carburetor in place of the injector body, and use it as-is. I also intend to change the water pump and pulleys so I can get rid of the serpentine belt and idlers. Then I can move the alternator to the other side and down low. If I run it like it is, the alternator and idler will be sticking out of the body.

[Itoldyouso]

Should be a very dependable engine............those things are running around with a zillion miles on them. Peppy little buggers, too. My Sons both owned a few S10's, all four cylinder models, and they ran great. In a light T it should be really good.


Don

[firebird77clone]

I'll share an alternator idea I have: I'm planning to use a high amperage motorcycle alternator on my 36. Gonna put it directly on the harmonic balancer. That plus an electric water pump, and VOILIA! NO BELTS.

[bluestang67]

Jim here i am trying to get a single belt and your getting rid of it . Mines costing a medium piggy back of silver .

[J. Robinson]

EG - I like the alternator idea, but I drive the wheels off my cars and I like things that are easy to find/fix/replace if I break down in an obscure area. All of the electric water pumps that I have seen are made for short-term occasional usage like drag racing or mud bogs. Also, I've not looked to see if there is one that fits this engine...

Bobby - You can have this belt if you can make it work... Seriously, the serpentine belt would be OK if it didn't stick out everywhere. I eventually will run a full hood on this car, so I need to move everything inboard. Right now, the alternator is hanging out on the passenger side and the idler pulley is on a bracket on the left. Both of them are completely outside the contour of the nose.

[bluestang67]

Jim the cars looking good and the engine looks right at home . Looks like it needs a pillow and blanket it sits so nice.

Jim thats a problem i hope doesnt happen here . If it does like you i'll have to change for the hood also. I dug out the 84 a/c brkt and held it up and it was allmost in line with right tire .

[J. Robinson]

I had the engine and transmission sitting in place on a couple of pipes stuck through the frame and it fit nicely, so it's time to make some permanent mounts.

After considerable thought, I decided to use the S-10 mounts. I could have fabricated a saddle mount, but there aren't any easily useable bolt-holes in the front of the 4-banger block like a V-8 Chevy. I could have built solid mounts, but I have seen them cause cracked blocks. So, here's what I did.

First, I cut two pieces of 3/16" x 3" flat stock (4 5/8" long) to fit the back of the S-10 mounts and drilled 13/32" holes to match. At this point I discovered that the mounts are not exactly identical; they are labeled "R" and "L" and the holes are reversed from one side to the other (upside down). After bolting the plates to the mounts, I tack-welded the nuts in place.

Next step was to bolt the mounts to the stock brackets on the engine and make sure the engine is centered in the frame. Interestingly, I discovered that the engine is not symetrical. I centered the crankshaft pulley between the frame rails, of course, and discovered that the left mount plate is 1 1/4" from the frame rail while the right one is only 5/8" away! I cut the appropriate size spacers form the 3/16" x 3" flat stock and tacked them in place. (Left side shown in picture)

Lastly, I cut and notched a short piece of 3/4" tubing to support the bottom of the mount plate. This piece is installed forward of center so it would clear the nut on the back side of the mount plate. After everything was welded securely (some final welding will be done when I blow the car apart for finishing), I removed the pipe from under the oil pan; the front of the engine is now sitting on its own permanent mounts.

[Itoldyouso]

Looking good, JR. I like the idea of using stock mounts...........you can replace them at any auto parts store. Plus, the factory spent a ton of money developing them, so they are engineered to do the job correctly.

It's amazing what you get done each session.

Don

[J. Robinson]

Thanks, Don. Yeah, I like using commonly available stuff. I've always reasoned that if my car breaks down in Ballzitch, Iowa at 2:00 AM Sunday morning, I dont want to be stuck waiting several days to have some high-zoot oddball part delivered. Everything on my cars is either commonly available or something I made myself that I can repair or duplicate. Specialty equipment manufacturers hate people like me...

I'd be moving a little faster on this project, but with school out of session I am involved in some household projects that are interrupting my progress. Next on the list is the transmission mount crossmember...

[Dave Severson]

Guess I haven't been checking this one for awhile.... Don't take this wrong, but I'm a bit nervous about all the suspension components, especially the hairpins on the axle end, being mounted in single shear..... Hate to see a big pothole snap something crucial some day.... Maybe either a double bracket, or even a clevis end instead of a heim end might build in a bit of a safety margin?????

[J. Robinson]

Hi Dave. Certainly no offense taken; actually I appreciate your concern. The bottom line is, the radius rod itself would either bend or snap long before those grade 8 bolts give way. If the rod end breaks, double brackets would have no effect either way. Clevises are a viable alternative, but they are really no stronger than good quality rod ends. I guess it comes down to personal preference; anyone building a car should do whatever makes them feel confident and secure...