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03-05-2012 10:58 AM #1
IC2, Just for discussion, was the steel pan snagged as a result of an obstacle like a speed bump? That might be why the bolt holes were enlarged. If so, the cast pan might crack insead of bending/denting? I only ask you that because I regret installing a 5" dropped front axle and am considering a major move to replace it with a 4" drop once I get the car running. I have one of those DeRalle steel pans with the spiral cooling tubes in it for some cooling but it is mighty low. At present the axle is the lowest part of the undercarriage but I would have to be going very slow to brake after hearing the axle scrape to save the trans pan. Fortunately most streets are very smooth but my driveway and mall parking lots are the most dangerous with humps/bumps. Your steel pan looks clean so what distorted the bolt holes?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 03-05-2012 at 11:03 AM.
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03-05-2012 11:54 AM #2
Hi Don. No, there was no speed bump snag. As far as I can tell, the steel the pan was manufactured from is at least one gauge size or more lighter then the original Ford piece. I then used a fairly thick cork gasket which allowed the area around the holes to deform. While the replacement aluminum pan is about an inch deeper, I really don't expect a problem there either as I do have a couple of parts that hang pretty low. This is that steel pan -

The aluminum -

The running boards and brackets as well as the 'H' pipe are lower just to name a couple items.
That newspaper under that pan is still drip free
HOOOOORAY!!!
Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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03-05-2012 12:02 PM #3
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03-05-2012 12:16 PM #4
I didn't show the engine oil pan with a drippy drain plug
(but only an occasional drop i.e. 1-2 a month)
Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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03-05-2012 12:23 PM #5
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03-13-2012 07:38 PM #6
Well having trouble getting a real car finished , so I decided to get some one to do this . HA HA it's still will take a few months .
Picture 002.jpg
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03-13-2012 08:09 PM #7
Some Progress,
After several days of checking my wiring I still could not understand why my turn signals will work but not the headlights and tailights. The turn signals prove the headlights and tailights were grounded so I phoned up my friend who did some amazing circuit repairs for me when we both were working for University research. It only took him about ten minutes to find the headlight fuse was missing and then he plugged in the radio which I had wired but was not sure to apply power to. Now I have:
1. A working windshield wiper which parks automatically to hide in the oak bow.
2. Working turn signals complete with little green indicator lights on the dash.
3. A working brake light.
4. A working heater fan (two speeds).
5. A working cigar lighter suitable to recharge a cell phone or locator.
6. A working radio/CD player with "quadraphonic sound" (two speakers in the rumble/trunk and two in the cowl).
7. Working headlights with hi/low beams and tailights when the headlights are on.
Still to work out are the absence of instrument lights, the lack of a red high beam indicator, and a lack of horn response. The horn may have an incorrect relay so I will be checking that but I will be listening to the radio when I am checking the wiring from now on! After that I will have to hope my digital speedometer was not fried when I soldered the connector while attached to the digital unit. If it is fried I will have to purchase a replacement.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
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03-14-2012 12:27 AM #8
"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells





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