Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Thanks for the answers. The difference in expansion and contraction makes good sense. Apparently I was just lucky in the past. I must have inadvertenly cut the few floors I've done with just enough "slop" for them to work out OK. I have been building hotrod and stock car chassis off & on since 1968 and I learn something new every time I do another one. Just goes to show that you're never too old to learn...

Brickman: The process is called "tabbing" in the business (boats primarily). What you do is lay your plywood in place, then lay up strips of fiberglass in an L shape , part of it on the plywood and the other part of the L on the body. You wet it out, then you lay another L shaped piece over the top of that one, with each sucessive one slightly wider than the last one, so that each one goes out a little further than the last one. The reason for this is so you don't create a hard, sharp place, where the glass can start to crack out. Each L is wider than the last one, if you can envision that. When I start the glassing I will take pictures to show this.

J: You probably put enough gap in those ones you did to be ok, it doesn't have to be a huge gap, just like a 1/4 inch or so. Yeah, I learn something all the time, and this forum has been a real learning experience, as we have some really talented folks on here, in a lot of areas. Wish I would have had a forum like this years ago.


Don

I kinda got a little late start today, but continued working on the shifter. I decided to go with the Craftsman wrench, what do you think of it???


Don

Just kidding !!!!!!!!!!!

No, actually, I am using the early Ford shift handle, and built some brackets out of 3 x 3 angle iron that I cut into a shape . I am going to use a spring loaded ball bearing as a detent, so that the shifter clicks into each gear. I still have some work to do on that, but about 3/4 of the shifter is done.

Here are some pictures, starting with the angle iron I cut, and then the pretty much laid out shifter. I could have just ordered a Lokar, or Gennie, but this was more satisfying, and I have about 20.00 in the whole thing so far. Used lots of scrap steel out of our scrap heap.

Thanks for looking.

Don

Heres one more shot.

CHEVYBOY:

Yeah, when I race it I'll use the 1/2 inch for quicker shifts.


Don

FMX: Here maybe this will make it a little easier to understand. If you can envision that for the most part all T buckets and similar bodies are just a big empty shell. So what you do is channel it the desired amount, then you have to build a floor for it. The majority of builders simply cut a big sheet of plywood into a floor shape that goes all around the inside perimeter of the body. Sort of like if you took a room in a house, and laid a floor from wall to wall going both directions. Then, you have to secure that plywood to the sides of the body some way, so you grind the inside of the body, where you are going to lay glass (it won't stick if you don't get the top layer off) and you cut fiberglass mat or glass into strips that are maybe 4 inches wide X a couple of feet long. Then you cut some strips 6 inches wide x a couple feet long, and then some 8 inches wide x a couple feet long. Now, you wet about 2 or 3 inches up the inside wall of the car, and also wet the same amount on the plywood. You lay down the first 4 inch strips and push them into place, making an L. in the corner (sort of like a baseboard in a house, but with another leg that is coming onto the floor.

When that is in place, you put the 6 inch pieces over the 4 inch piece, overlapping it, and extending out into the floor and up the side 1 inch further. you keep doing that until you feel you have enough layers to make it strong. After that, you flip the body upside down and do the very same thing on the underside of the body. When you are done, the body will now have a very strong floor. You still have to put some other wood on the sides, and I will take pictures as I do that, as well.

Hope this helps clear it up somewhat.

Don